Tom D
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Everything posted by Tom D
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This was how I did it, we used the hobbs to hold the stem together as it has a good strong strap and an nice long bar for the ratchet. I spiked up the beech and tied in to a pine nearby, I had to stay stropped in to the beech for work position...
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Nice one mark, good idea strapping them, might not have fancied it without.
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Just so you know, this tree is now safely on the deck, I was interested in others views. RE feling, cut and hope wasn't an option as there were targets to avoid, an access road being the main thing. The stem was divided into 4 sections, by explode I mean the back section that was under the most tension would have pinged out at high speed I couldn't begin to estimate what the others would have done. Interestingly this tree was climbed by a bat inspector last week, it was a calm day and as I said the cracks had elongated since then. He had refused to climb another beech that was standing dead. This got me thinking, how we all approach things differently, I would have climbed the dead beech no problem but would have had more qualms about this one...
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Thanks I'll try him...
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This was an interesting one, a tall beech with several longitudinal splits starting at the buttresses and heading up about 15' up the stem, they were opening and closing in a light breeze. The tree was heavily weighted to one side and the splits were twisting as they tracked up the stem. the splits had elongated since yesterday. The options were fell at the at the base, this could result in the whole thing exploding into a massive barber chair the moment the saw touched the stem, dangerous for the faller but safer than climbing? Or climb and dismantle, less chance of barber chair but risky that the whole thing fails while the climber is up the tree. would you take the weight off in small bits or just cut it in half? Interested in opinions.....
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As above, anyone know any?
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I just bought a 7901, its a good saw, plenty of power with a 24" bar. Time will tell how reliable it is but I can confirm that the performance is impressive. and the price is good too. What makita need to do is get a decent arb supplier to start taking their saws, their dealers seem to be mostly tool dealers aimed more at the building trade. If the likes of fr jones did them they would sell loads, I think the only thing putting a lot of people off is the lack of dealer support and parts availability.
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its a bcs 50hp. the loader is very handy but its not a big lifter, mainly because alpines are designed with a lot of weight out front for implement work on hills. its a very handy bit of kit. It has paid for itself many times over.
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is a 346 less than £474?? I thought they were more like £550inc vat
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I have 2 trailers, a 16' beavertail ifor and an atlas 10' tipper, I mostly use the atlas these days, the loader sits above the back of the landy...
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Makita DCS5030-45 (REPLACES DCS5000) 18"/45cm Fully Pro £395.00 not much more than the husky.... Edit... I was looking b4 vat..
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With the makita I would go for the dcs5030, this is a pro saw and is on a par with the stihl 261 and the husky 346 in terms of power to weight. I would take a pro saw from makita over a hobby saw from stihl or husky. No need to go on a course, but learn to sharpen it properly from someone who knows how. And learn how not to blunt it. Does rob d have a video???
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This is mine, it is one of my best investments, currently using it on a nice council woodland project, winching, skidding, stacking, and pulling the chipper around..
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I eat at least 2 bags of crisps a day... I like nuts too.. but you can't find them in the broxburn scotmid....
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Thats a hell of a lot of money, you won't be much better off in terms of employment apart from having a some extra tickets. I have found that some people who have done 38,39,40 are still unable to climb. The tests are easy and you would be better off getting some experience with a firm and having a go before you spend a fortune on training. You will learn more and be much more employable after working for a good firm for 6 months than any 6 week course will give you. Some people just aren't cut out for climbing, until you have a go and really try and test yourself you won't know wether you are a natural, or someone who will have to work at it, or someone who will never be able to do it.
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The price stlhls make on ebay, there's no need for a re-fund. especially if you bought it from Jonsie at a great price in the first place! FWIW mine has been fine since we replaced the drum and bearing..
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I replaced the clutch rum and bearing on mine recently, if it goes again it will be going on ebay (after it has been repaired of course). I will probably replace it with a makita dcs5030, same cc, same power and slightly lighter, only £395 and since I will only be using it as a brashing and chipper saw it should be up to the task.
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I just watched the freelander one, as we have one.. I had wondered what curtain airbags did... very impressive, almost looks comfortable.. Land Rover Freelander | Euro NCAP - For safer cars crash test safety rating
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I was supposed to monolith a dead beech last week, we had to wait for the bat inspector to look at it first but he refused to climb it. I thought it would be bad form to monolith it after that so we felled it. ( I would have though )
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This was lime and leylandii.......
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We had to monolith this beech to 10m, the left, broken stem was a potential bat roost and we had to avoid hitting it, dismantling the head would therefore have been tricky, so we felled it in a oner...
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Covered in ivy 2/3 of the way up, that was why I was inspecting it, to have a look at the unions, the ivy was severed after that. The ivy was impressive in its own right, about 25cm DBH on the biggest stem. Seriously big tree, the biggest stem was 90cm+ diameter at 20m.
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a couple from this weeks monolithing...
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Climbed it today, its 4.7m circumference, 1.5m dbh, 31m high and 31m canopy spread... Its 28m to my head hight.
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Took 3 big limes down today, here's a few pics..
