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Chris Sheppard

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Everything posted by Chris Sheppard

  1. I really don't mind the windsor bars and chains. We've been using a mix of Windsor full and semi chisel .325 in 050 and 058 on 13" windsor roll top bars for about 18 months on the 242's with no problems at all. The 050 pings off easily but I find even the Oregon ones do when snedding/clearing whippy stuff. The chains maybe aren't as nice as the newer style Oregon stuff, but are loads better than the Carlton ones and it cuts well. I reckon the bars are as good as Oregon too, including the 18" replacable nose one that's been on the 066 for a while too.
  2. Mine's probably had more two stoke mix through it than neat unleaded and it's never bothered it so far. Think it's about 8 years old now too.
  3. Aint that the truth - saw my old one go through ebay a couple of years ago for a whole lot more that I paid for it (and sold it for) only a couple or so years earlier than that. It wasn't that long ago they were regularly floating around for £4-5K. I remember only 6 or 7 years ago even Wilsons had one in with a roof mount for £3000 odd - it was rough but would have been OK for a yard bus.
  4. .325 semi chisel (058 not 050) but can't remember if it's Husky or Oregon on it at the mo.
  5. I've not tried an 18" on mine, and I doubt I'd ever bother. I'm sure it would handle it on occasion if need be, but at the end of the day it's a 50cc saw and runs a 13" or 15" really well, both power wise and handling wise. I'm not a big fan of the narrow kerf .325 chains - I tend to find they throw really easily. If you've got a 20" for your 372, don't waste your money getting a fractionally smaller bar to run on a saw with only 2/3rds the displacement
  6. I thought Wood Nuggets was quite fitting.
  7. I think it's some sort of gassifying boiler from what I read somewhere. I managed to persuade the bloke from Welmac to let me take a bag of branch loggings so I could see how they burned and show them to potential buyers. Never got as far as showing them to anyone but did try burning them. My thoughts were that rather than thinking of it as tiny logs, think of it as something like coal and use the coal scuttle to load the fire. Burnt really quite well too. Reckon half of the trouble is getting people to try it in the first place.
  8. I get on better with the button type braces, but more often than not you'll need to re-sew/replace the buttons a few times over the liftime of the trousers. Usually by the time the trousers are junk, the braces will be ready for the bin too - they tend to lose their stretchyness over time. Visors are a pain in the arse in the rain, but safety specs are too. Best visor have found so far for working in the rain is the new type husky one as water doesn't tend to hold on it much compared to other visors (including the old type husky ones). If it's windy, I'll sometimes wear safety specs though.
  9. They did (might still) do a petrol one - SM70. There is another importer bringing in soem others made by a company called Rojek, or something like it. All I can remember is they were yellow and green and it was something like 90mm capacity.
  10. Yep, google "Urban TR 70" and you should find the importer. They do a 70mm and 110 version and it bags it for you. There's a thread on here somewhere "TR70 branch logger at APF" or something similar.
  11. That's where my thoughts lie too. Certification is all well and good but how often would someone come straight off something like 34/35 and be going straight into block after block of windblow where they can put what they've learnt into practice to go from Competant to Experienced. On the whole, I'd much rather work alongside someone who had less tickets but more experience than someone with a big stack of tickets than plenty of experience.
  12. The rear attachment point is on the winch, not the saw. I've never used a lewis but had been very close to buying one a couple of times. I stumbled across something similar on ebay one day and ended up buying that instead (a Helper winch made by Rule Indutries and powered by a homelite powerhead). The job I bought it for never happened in the end but we've used it a few times so far, mainly for pulling hangers and it's proved to be a useful thing, and surprisingly powerful. The one thing I noticed with the lewis is that it makes a much more compact unt if it's mounted to a saw with an inboard clutch (like a Husq 372 or similar).
  13. Used to wear the Haix tibet forest as they were so comfy and lasted really well, but have heard since that they don't last as well as they used to. Ket the water out well too. Currently in Pfanner Tirrol fighters - didn't really like them at first but they've bedded in eventually and are wearing OK. They aren't as comfy as the old Haix were but are OK. They aren't waterproof but the Pfanner wax does seem to keep the majority of it out.
  14. Maybe, but think about how much time/handling it reduces compared to felling it, forwarding it, hauling it back to the yard to then be stacked, then moved again onto the processor deck, then the logs into the barn, then the bags on to the pick up for delivery.
  15. I'm not convinced a cement mixed would be strong enough. Most of the home made ones on youtube seem to use some a truck/tractor axle and wheel as the base of it. For splitting, a blade welded to the back of the cutter or a beak shaped cutter seem to be the ways I've seen.
  16. I'd agree with that on the whole. 2wd with good rear tyres and well adjusted independent brakes will wiggle round a thinning really well, but even with ballast will be light on it's front wheels with a good snig behind it. Even fairly recently, we used to pull our forwarding trailer behind a 2wd tractor for long enough - it was ok most of the time, but that's where 4wd really shone through. Never used a skidding grapple myself but would guess it'll want plenty of weight over the front of the axle to get the best out of it whatever tractor is using it.
  17. That's pretty much what's inside something like a Bilke or Klappi Tuiko. Works really well on green timber but tend to make a big pile of kindling out of drier wood. Always surprises me how big diameter thy can take without the machine self destructing - from memory, the Klappi take 20cm!
  18. As above, that's what those bolt on pieces are doing, splitting it as the shear comes out. Nokka do a similar set up but with a 4 way set up on the other side so the log gets pushed through the knife, more like a conventional processor. I've seen something similar to the Nokka one but on a conventional roller head (on youtube somewhere) - worked better than I thought it would.
  19. Marshall's had one at their demo day up here last year. Can't remember the make, but it was 60t and had a hydraulically adjustable window knife. Looked a simple, but well made thing.
  20. I'd say it's real, but mainly because I've tripped over it a few times No it's not mine though.
  21. Niwaki Tripod Ladder - Niwaki It's these I think (they aren't mine) - all I know is that if you shop about they can be had a good bit less than list. It's the 12ft we use and they're ace
  22. No good for the gutter cleaning, but for hedge cutting and pruning small trees, those japanese tripod step ladders are fantastic. After using a set for a while I don't know how people mange without them. They are really light, though look very fragile, but have stood up to use so far and don't need someone standing on the bottom of them either so have sped jobs up no end.
  23. Get it stacked on bearers and try to put it where it will get good ar flow. It's almost like it sweats under the bark and does go soft fairly soon in comparison to others. A few months shouldn't be a problem though, especially as were (supposedly) coming out of winter before too long.
  24. Really nice firewood, burns quite quick but hot. Leaving the logs a little chunkier helps make it last a bit better though. Does tend to go mouldy very quickly thugh if kept too airtight.
  25. That sounds more like it

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