Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

mikecotterill

Veteran Member
  • Posts

    1,029
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by mikecotterill

  1. Just a thought...Could you not wear an ordinary cheap thin material hi-vis trousers over your preferred chainsaw trousers? You would protect the CS ones and could get those washed as much as you like...:confused1:Feel free to ridicule...

     

    By the time you've another layer of trousers on it kinda defeats the objective of havin the stretch airs.:)

  2. Yeah I've got a pair if stretch airs, by far the best trouser for climbing and even general working too. But after 6/7 months mine are falling apart, the crotch has gone between the two legs and the hi viz strips are falling apart, tho they've changed the strips on the newer ones. So basically for the money they cost there c**p but there still the best to work in!

  3. Yes- its the dogs danglies. DO NOT BOTHER with ANY other off road tyre, they ALL pale into insignificance in comparison. They are VERY hard wearing, and the best off road tyre short of the likes of simex which cant really be run on road. The only people who disagree tend to be those that havent experienced BFG muds. (i have tried almost every off road tyre- budget and otherwise- in the last 20 years, and wouldnt touch anything other than the BfG MT)

     

    That's the new tread pattern is it?

    It looks more chunkier than the old one did, I got I set of the old ones and am quite impressed just wish I'd wrote down the mileage I'd put them on at!

  4. with a spool block with a PRV there is no need for an extra PRV as a bleed off valve unless either A: the spool block is removable via QR couplings thus once removed there is no means of pressure regulation (should have a balance pipe for the QR couplings when the spool block is removed) or B: the pump flow capacity is higher than the spool block can handle.

     

    if its a case of B: then you are wasting the speed element thus limiting potential fluid HP at the winch which will affect winch speed, and the spool block is incorrect for the application which in turn will result in excess heat in the hydraulic fluid due to constant high pressure in the feed line and thus bleed line given that with an open centre spool block shouldn’t be at a high pressure when non of the levers are in use as it should just be cycling fluid.

     

    If its also a case of B: you WILL have to maintain the bleed line PRV and NOT replace it with a directional vale without a PRV some ware in case of accidental directional vale/PTO operation and/or without a balance pipe between the relevant pair of QR couplings when NOT in use.

     

    :001_rolleyes:

     

    I read somewhere can't remember where tho, something along the lines of: the prv in the valve block is only for the winch as it's set lower than the tool/second service needs. So I presume the prv above is something to do with when your using a tool, and the prv in the valve block is bypassed somehow? One thing I do find strange about andys advice about putting it between pump and valve block is that there's a hose with the kit that us exactly the right length/ fittings to go from pump to valves. But it makes more sense to put it where Andy says, so thatswhere it's goin! :)

  5. Nice one cheers Andy one last question tho while I've found someone who knows, would it be possible to convert the spool block above to electric somehow, it's the only problem I'm gonna have is having to be so close/or in the vehicle to operate it, would be ideal if I could fit a remote.

     

    Rik happy new year mate. You know me not happy unless I'm wasting money on the old landy!

  6. Cheeers for the reply. It does have three ports. Ii might help if I explain how it's piped up (or will be).

    It going tank-pump- then to a spool valve this has two levers one for forward and reverse of the winch, the second is an "on/off" which supplies two take off points for tools etc.- then to oil cooler- filter-tank.

    There is an adjustable screw like the one on the picture on the spool valve which I presume is the prv for the winch to stop overloading.

  7. the starter motor doesn't kick in every time you attempt to turn the engine over

     

    If it just doesn't engage on the flywheel, ie it either grinds or just spins without doing anything it's the solenoid rather than the motor itself (persuming it's the type with a solenoid on the side) these are replaceable on there own.

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.