treeseer
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Everything posted by treeseer
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Sorry you got no reply on this! It depends of course but it's no shame finding a compromise short of butchery. Limit the size of wounds, is the main thing. Got a picture? Maybe also post in Tree Health Care?
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I'm told that the chemical Prochloraz is listed in the UK for treating fungi like HF. Has anyone here tried it?
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Thanks; I tried to shake spores out but the conk was generally degrading, so maybe that was the brown dust, not the spore colour. I would agree with a lot of the remarks pointing to Meripulus and what Schwarze's anatomical notes describe matches this; short fibrous stalk, concentrically zoned and radially furrowed, grows like a fan, ah poetry of precision! I'm farily confident that it's not Ganoderma; the top is too rough, wrong shape etc. 3 calls to remove this vet already, so don't bother with that reaction. 20% reduction of sprawl is specified, with root care and support. But Merip has a rep as a sapwood scourge, so I need to monitor the fungal strategies of tree and fung as Merip tries to spread around the stem. How can I do this noninvasively yet convincingly?
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ISA Board-Certified Master Arborist opens a lot of doors.
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I belayed a 71-year old client up to 35 feet, and she tied a tautline and lowered herself. She loved it! (this was in the US).
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Me too; that's the tentative ID that went in the report. Always open to change though...
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10% off the ends of overextended limbs, <20% if they have bad forks. 15% off=> 50% gain in stability. Cut to upright laterals where possible. Cable to support the cracking fork. This does not seem too difficult. Fencing etc. does not seem warranted; the limbs over the (rarely used?) path have already failed--where is the risk? Not sure if Mr. H. might have another plan or not. But why jump to such extreme conclusions and actions? If you want buds to release, it' might be worth a try nicking the limbs just beyond old growth points. It works with apple trees.
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In my limited experience Laetiporus is usually more wrinkled, and these are pretty flat. But they might have flattened as they shriveled. It's having a bath because it is dirty. The meaning of the text (is that what you are on about Tone? sheesh.) will be revealed when i ID this fung! It smells slightly sweetish; no taste. Does the side view help?
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That's a funny name for a fungus. Could you enlighten, out of love of neighbour?
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Closeups
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These conks were really dessicated, so some ID methods on the app like bruising could not be done. Pretty high profile tree so I'd really like to nail the ID.
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Thanks for the followup; fungi and trees coexist.
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Good question Paul. If you've found no laces or mycelia, the LAST thing to say is "It's HF". Facts before theories: S. Holmes.
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I see reduced branches die all too often, and oft with chagrin, as they tell me that my thinning of limbs above gave inadequate light for their sustenance. reduction points can be delineated by 1/3 laterals, or by buds, whatever gets the job done!
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Hmmmmm... When big branches get reduced too hard they don't get enough light so they die. so is the idea to force or quicken that process, in the hopes that resources translocate to the collar area, before a final cut? Wouldn't removing all the leaves have the same effect as shading them? And what reason is there to leave a lateral of a particular width? I kinda see where you are going but can you get there from here?
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Remedial action to this London planes rooting area.
treeseer replied to Will Ayers's topic in Tree health care
I don't see a tripping hazard in the sidewalk itself, just that concrete block leading to the door. Either 1 lift and toss the whole thing 2 cut/break off the lifted corner and fill with gravel or 3 shave off the raised corner. -
Hi Nick it's guy from WI Maybe Inonotus sp.?
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How badly does client need a lawn? Any way to restore sunken garden to acceptable appearance? If not, remove hardscape before filling with soil (good advice above) so the oak roots can colonise the fill. Could be anet benefit over time for oak if done well.
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O no more like 200!
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Sorry to mislead; the steel "wrecking bar" referenced is <4cm wide so would make perceptible holes in lawns. They can go ~1m deep ime. It's work, but often quite worth the effort.
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OK, but cracking the top of it cannot hurt can it?
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An iron bar is a good tool for fracturing hardpan.
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Whether it is fungus or algae these conditions are improved by improving air movement If the tree is up against the corner of the house then air movement may be seriously lacking so any thinning done or anything to improve light and air movement would help the condition As well as sanitation removing the fallen leaves
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There is some organism colonizing the base of the tree When soil is placed on the base of the tree and in contact with stem tissue Such colonization is almost inevitable and you're just asking for trouble Without pulling the soil away and inspecting more closely it is impossible to see if the tree is colonized by a pathogen or harmless soil organisms Without pulling the mulch and soil away from the stem tissue it is impossible to identify the organism and diagnose the condition of the tree Arborists need to get their hands dirty whether they like it or not Even if it is Armillaria that can be sealed off by the tree if the site is dried out I do not think that David meant to say he had identified any pathogens Or diagnosed any conditions Prescription without diagnosis is malpractice. 💉
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WHAT!!! Alex Shigo must be turning in his grave. It must be very frustrating for you in the US bud" Yes the standards process is corporate-driven so change is mightily resisted. Meanwhile Shigo's name is dragged through the mud; collar cuts are worshipped as "Shigo Cuts", though Dr. S. championed 'nodal pruning' as he recognised that most forks have no collar.
