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treeseer

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Everything posted by treeseer

  1. Why was it pruned? (If you don't mind me asking.)
  2. Yes remove all inoculum present (in the roots) and replace soil, with soil from the rootzone of a healthy beech, ideally.
  3. 2008. topping: Reduction of tree size using internodal cuts without regard to tree health or structural integrity. Topping is not an acceptable pruning practice. 2015 (proposed). topping: Excessive reduction of tree size by cutting live branches and leaders to stubs, without regard to long-term tree health or structural integrity. Topping is not an acceptable practice. 9.56 stub: Portion of a branch or stem remaining after an internodal cut or branch breakage. So there's the committee's DRAFT revision of the definition of topping. If anyone knows what "Excessive" means, please tell the rest of us. See http://tcia.org/files/A300Part1-Pruning-D1V1-20151109.pdf for more legalese, punctuated with unusable terms like "excessive" and "appropriate". An interesting exercise is to highlight the SHALL 'requirements'. For actual guidance, US folk will wait 2 years until the bmp comes out, or look to other sources. Where should they look?
  4. The Case of the Pestilent Procession: - Detective Dendro - 240725762 * podcasting.org.uk was google's first hit when i searched the title. Vacuum cleaners work well!
  5. That's really punky looking. Respect to Kd. The attached Acer rubrum got reduced 3-5m and the owner said it's been looking good this season. Trying to formulate a plan for when the Kd meets the rot from the big wounds 20' up. Smith Report 140712.doc
  6. To be honest, I have been a bit more casual about rip cuts when I am reaching with a pole saw and cannot get a good undercut. Observations are that these wounds do not affect stability as they close pretty well. At the same time, inner wood is exposed for habitat. However I do not see much internodal sprouting from the exposed cambium. The goal is typically to give a light enough dose to avoid the tree panicking! "Also, large 'collar' cuts to upright laterals can present good sites for bore-cutting for cavity nesters like lorikeets, nuthatches... By all means there are environments and objectives that call for intentional wounding, done selectively.
  7. Thanks David for clarification on the dichotomy as defined by some in the UK. But I've seen a lot of 'coronetting' on the ends of branches living and dead in living trees in other countries. What else would that be called? Thanks for posting the first 2 pics. They show sprouts arising from nodes aka growth points aka concentrations of vitality. On my screen I can't see sprouts arising from the cut/tear surface. That substantiates the biological reality that the strongest sprouting arises from preexisting buds, so a flat cut to those buds is the best for the tree. I'm all for carving dead trees for aesthetics, and for habitat. On the other hand if you have seen an actual benefit to the tree from fracturing, I'm all eyes.
  8. Sure on monoliths why not. On living trees the fad has yet to hit the US, thank goodness. The theory that coronetting helps or speeds sprouting has fallen flat, so the fad is bound to fade, gradually being restricted to dead trees.
  9. Don't they teach inspection of strengths, along with speculating on weaknesses? 1 What holds the tree up? How can it be strengthened? 2 How big is the load and how can it be reduced? 3 Is there active colonisation by fungi, and what is the tree's (often overcompensating) response? 4 re the ash, pull off the loose dead bark and have a look. Let the tree tell you what's going on; never mind the internet!
  10. Now boys boys where'd you get that idea? David I doubt that; all gano I've is bright or creamy white when it arises. Unless this is the opposite of an albino??
  11. Look at the sunken are below the hole. I agree with Gary re root related. Your colleague can get a clear idea of the cause if the take a trowel and dig away all the dirt off the stem. No inspection, no diagnosis.
  12. Yes tha tis the only place i saw it. and it sure looked to be coming from the roots, belwo the mulch.
  13. Found this velvet beauty poking up ~5m from the trunk of a Q phellos with much Inonotus dryadeus at the flare. to clarify; that is an old I. d. in my left hand.
  14. FUNGAL STRATEGIES OF WOOD DECAY IN TREES by Schwarze is th ebest. In 1878, in Germany, as I learned in Forestry 101, the modern science of tree care was born with the publication of Robert Hartig’s text on tree disease. This landmark book described the parasitic mode of life of Armillaria on Scots pine and documented the breakdown of cell walls by Phellinus pini. In 1863, Schacht had described the invasion of cell walls by fungal hyphae. Lacking the tools necessary for a closer analysis, but building on Schacht’s work, Hartig postulated that enzymes secreted by fungal hyphae dissolved lignin and caused secondary cell walls to collapse. As a result, wood would become worthless, and trees would fall down. In 2000, in Germany, the science of tree care took a great leap forward. Building on the work of Hartig, Shigo and many others, Francis W.F.M.R. Schwarze, Julia Engels and Claus Mattheck published Fungal Strategies of Wood Decay in Trees. Now available worldwide, and made readily accessible to English speakers thanks to the superlative translation work of William Linnard, this book shows the reader an entirely new way of looking at decay in trees. By understanding fungus-tree interaction more completely, the tree manager can make decisions about how to handle infected trees with more certainty. More certainty is certainly needed today. Many authorities tell tree managers that infections by Armillaria, Ganoderma, Inonotus and other fungi are considered sufficient cause for immediate removal of the tree for fear of failure. However, based on over ten years of research, Schwarze tells us “…the mere occurrence of a fungus fruit body on a tree does not indicate the extent of the decay…Degradation processes, host differences and environmental conditions are too diverse…decays often affect only a small amount of wood in the tree, so that stability and safety are not impaired.” The book begins with a review of wood anatomy, focusing on the layered structure of the cell wall. Readers of Mattheck’s earlier work will recognize the hedgehog demonstrating the mechanical stresses within the tree. By listening to this “body language” spoken inside the tree, the diagnostician may “hear” the decay spread--and sometimes stop. With magnification up to 1000x, the reader is able to see clearly the action of the fungus in the cells, and the reaction of the trees to the attack. Fungal pathology is reviewed next; the brown, white and soft rots. Much advanced information on soft rots, which were first described by Schacht in 1863, is presented. For instance, research by Schwarze et al prove what Sinclair, Lyon and Johnson saw indications of in 1987—that Hypoxylon deustum (a.k.a. Ustulina deusta) causes a soft rot in the sapwood of various trees. This is just one example of a pathogen shifting strategies, from saprophyte to parasite, or from enzyme-secreting to hyphae-growing that the authors note, especially on moisture-stressed trees. Chapter Three, the heart of the book, is devoted to Fungus-Host Combinations. For a diagnostician of limited understanding, such as the reviewer, the illustrations here tell the tale of fungal pathology better than a thousand words. First, electron micrographs take the eye into intercellular and intracellular space, where the chemical battles take place. Then, three-dimensional anatomic drawings paint a distinct picture of the disease and the defense. Finally photographs, of standing trees and cross-sections, show what we all see in real life when a rotting tree is cut down and cut up. By pulling the eye and the mind from the inside of the tree to the outside and back again, the book allows the reader to exhaustively examine what takes place when fungus and tree combine. Still, as Schwarze says, “it requires an effort to understand these…’trials of strength’…the only sensible approach to predicting the future expansion of a decay…” Or termination of a decay process; for he and others have observed, “many trees, old and young, in which a decay has been successfully compartmentalized”. The authors note why “stress treatment” fertilization of struggling trees often backfires—decay fungi thrive on excess nitrogen. Chapter 4 begins with the compartmentalization model, and verifies that theory with microscopic assessment. Since most fungi which endanger trees’ stability work from the inside out, the ways that trees resist that outward spread are reviewed at some length. Xylem rays can be the trees’ Achilles Heels, the pathogens’ paths of least resistance. Similarly, xylem cracks produced by rapid drying after removal of a branch are “motorways” for infection, so the authors suggest that “the use of wound sealants could be quite successful against wound parasites. However there is still a great need for research here.” When large branches must be removed, experimenting with sealants seems preferable to opening the heartwood to decay. For information about the NEWTS—Network of Experimental Wound Treating and Sealing—contact the author. Throughout the book, we are reminded that the tree’s vitality and its energy reserves are the most important factors in making a prognosis. Since fungal spores are present throughout the air, soil and water that surrounds the tree, it is the arborist’s first and constant task to make trees stronger and more resistant to any attack. If fungus gets a foothold in a tree, following the discoveries within Fungal Strategies of Wood Decay in Trees can lead to a program to resist decay and retain and increase tree value.
  15. Stellar! Thanks for the time to put these up; they are the best ammo for breaking down the walls of ignorance over here. Of course pics of the dreaded associates can make a dent in the mycophobic mindset as well...
  16. This Q alba died back after root damage a few years ago, but has recovered nicely on its own, regenerating a new crown. Note the upright reiteration that arises.
  17. I've heard this theory before but never saw it proven. OP reported an open crack at the union.
  18. There are always exceptions! Eye bolts are old school and much more damaging. Through-cabling involves a much smaller hole. 1/4" hole for a 3/16" cable with 3990# breaking strength is new school. Rigguy, Inc >> Solving Your Challenges Through Innovative Solutions http://www.preformed.com/images/PDFs/sp3062-2wedgegripde__.pdf no splicing, much less time and handling. This is what i had hoped I had hoped to do w that big Y-shaped cracking vet at Richmond Park. maybe this summer, pro bono?
  19. Look more closely at those black bumps at the bottom--Kretchmaria(sp?)?? Those ripples may well be an odd reaction to movement. Light reduction may well work--why does the owner want it down? Similar ripples on a beech here Detective Dendro - The Case of the Wonderous Washboard.pdf
  20. agree with matty and paul. cannot see red line but it looks to be halfway up? if washer is big enough it might be fine. can you get a closeup pic? UK is unique in its aversion to drilling, while at times advocating massive pruning wounds. Think about it--rather odd isn't it? Standards and practice in the US are more balanced. Dynamic support makes no sense above an open crack. Why encourage movement where it can increase instability? light reduction with poleclip may be warranted if there's any doubt about the brace aka cable.
  21. Bam! Killed another thread.
  22. Lateral branches are not the only signs of growth points. It's the dormant buds that matter, and they are found wherever a lateral was previously shed. So cut to those locations, and regrowth should be sustainable. It's impossible to say more without a pic, hint, hint, but here are some guidelines that work well with Acer. restore_2010_06.pdf
  23. My experience as well, and with a more powerful tool. Not exactly what you are looking for, but maybe close enough to be of interest--if you want to view the screen at 6 a.m. GMT! Tree Protection During Construction: What You Don't Know Can Hurt You Urban tree injury related to construction can degrade the performance of our urban trees, limiting their lifespan and even causing tree failure! Arborists, urban foresters and tree enthusiasts will learn about the latest research, and review proper practices, related to protecting trees during construction as they join guest speaker, Dr. Gary Johnson, University of Minnesota. To attend, visit Join the Webinar | GoToWebinar and enter the Access code: 138-507-475 This noonhour broadcast is free and will offer the opportunity for arborists to earn 1.0 ISA CEU and 0.5 MCA credit. For more information, contact: Rick Harper Department of Environmental Conservation University of Massachusetts, Amherst [email protected] The Urban Forestry Today 2015 Noonhour Webcast Series is sponsored by the University of Massachusetts Department of Environmental Conservation, in cooperation with the Massachusetts Tree Wardens' & Foresters' Association, University of Massachusetts Extension, the USDA Forest Service and the Massachusetts Department of Conservation and Recreation.
  24. Hmm not aware of such on this side of the pond, but I will dig a bit for that. biggar, the air tool can peel the skin off of roots, but I think they are designed well enough that air is not injected into them!?!
  25. Good advice, Mick: "I have been asked to reduce a small/medium sized Indian bean tree for a customer and just want a little bit of advice as to how had I can cut them back. With the growth being on the outside I guess I am limited and I would assume they don't take to pollarding to well, don't want to loose it but it is taking up a all her front garden and I would like to do what I can to help. Maybe thinning may be an option if I cans reduce it enough without risking the trees health. Any advice would be much appreciated." My advice would be to focus on the buds and not the leaves, and reduce away. The assumption that they do not take to hard reduction to buds aka pollarding has been answered by others. I also have a Catalpa that I pollard, to enjoy the new foliage every year. If the client's long term goal is to keep the tree without having it take up the whole garden, I think we have agreed on a way to do just that!

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