b101uk

Is that a Norwegian pixie stood by that ms180 with a 30” bar

I gave up tree work full-time in ~95 so I now pass on most of my tree work for a % &/or then sub to them if and when needed as trees are a sideline to all my other stuff , thus I don’t need EL

Do you want it so you can open it up in a GIS program or do you just want it as an image you can print off paper maps to scale and hide deferent layers/futures? Can you find it on flashearth? http://www.flashearth.com/?lat=52.500000&lon=-2.0000002&z=9.3&r=0&src=msl

do you want a 2d map or 3d map? how big is the land?

Well I got an email reply today from the TO regarding the trees, I have the go-ahead to take them down, I am still a little confused still as the status of the land & the trees on it with regard to the ~1968 blanket TPO & there phone comments saying it was no longer in force & was left off the review of trees/etc in my locality last year so there are no TPO’s in force with regard to tree or land constraint & “that I could cut down whatever I liked” It also transpires I don’t have to replace the trees either, though I will be doing so.

mm well last time I looked my building insurance was £3200 £5m PL insurance with regard to the industrial site above + a quarry and other works outside the above is £1800 don’t need EL as i never employ anyone. My Unimog insurance is £710 fully comp (all forms of use) including £5m PL for any works and covers unnamed implements/trailers <£5000 attached and named implements/trailers up to £25000 in any location even if not attached.

I quite like doing Leylandi hedges. For siding up I use to put a tarpaulin off a 40ft semi-trailer down at the base of the hedge to catch all the trimmings, you could then easily pull one end or side of the tarpaulin to the other to get all the trimmings in one place or fold the tarpaulin in on its self trapping the trimmings within the tarpaulin and just put the whole lot in the trailer then unfold & empty back at the yard. The other use was were the hedge had flower beds, as you could use the rope eyelets on the tarpaulin to fix it ~>1m up the hedge then use blocks of railway sleeper to hold the tarpaulin taught catching a bulk of the trimmings which would slide down the slope of the tarpaulin, this way only the lower ~1m of trimmings falls on the flower beds neatly at the base without spreading all over the place like the upper trimmings do, witch make clearing up much easer/faster.

I like the ider of something “odd” or “not the norm” something like a “Taxodium mucronatum - Montezuma Cypress” Wikipedia - Taxodium as per Jonny69 suggestion, but it may be a bit specialist and to dry for the others

I wander who the lucky person is with 01234 567890 as there phone number?

Mm I don’t think they look to bad, they have a simplicity about them witch is not a bad thing , they can be used at 540rpm & 1000rpm PTO speeds witch with 4 blades makes up to 4000 cuts per min. How much are they? (in $US)

If you can use the schmidt plate (EU DIN plate) this will move the CoG of the chipper closer to the front axel, this will reduce the weight on the front axel as its not being transferred from the rear axel (seesaw effect around the front axle) witch will improve handling when unloaded. If the chipper is a 3pt mount, then make a close fitting frame to fit on the schmidt plate that will take the 3pt pins to make a ridged fixing, you can then use chains to take the drive off the PTO to a reverser box then to the input for the chipper. This way you get it close fitting to the front but its still easy to take off with 3 pins to use on the rear or on another tractor etc

Cone Sign Pedestrians Arrow Left Cone Sign Pedestrians Arrow Right Cone Sign Pedestrians Please Use Other Footpath Cone Sign Footpath Closed 600mm x450mm Cone Sign Road Narrows Left Cone Sign Road Narrows Right 750mm Men at Work Cone Sign Cone Sign Directional Arrow Fixed Left Cone Sign Directional Arrow Fixed Right 750mm Roadhog Recycled Cone - Pack of 10 750mm Bigfoot Cone - Pack of 10

what about flat-pack 750mm cone mounted signs? 10 * 750mm cones = ~£55.00 cone mounted signs = ~£12.50 each cone + sign = ~£18.00

wouldn’t it have been done a few years after pollarding?

sorry but "tickets" have absolutely nothing to do with safety, safety is not something your really learn by doing tickets, safety is something you naturally have or don’t have and its mainly either based on experience or natural aptitude & judgment. I know plenty of people with tickets who I wouldn’t trust with a butter knife yet alone a chainsaw, they don’t know how to maintain there saw yet alone sharpen it with a file properly. You should remember that “ticketing” is just a cash cow for organisations to make money by using H&S as a means to force testing in professions that can make money from by abusing legislation!

Hi Charlie, etc The stretch of land is behind my house and in essence forms an extension of my garden, so my water feature is the river seven! So it’s a personal project rather than a customer. The bank its self doesn’t suffer from erosion its just more the fact that the bank is near vertical and substantially higher than the up or down stream banks, the lower 6ft to 8ft is limestone and the ground above 8ft (~15ft) is a clay to soil strata like the up & down stream banks and is basically a throwback to when the river was much deeper/wider because the limestone outcrop at this point is highest so created a little natural plateau as waters fell over time, the section occupied by the 2 Beach trees has slipped sometime before 1985 but only dropped by ~4ft and has remind stable ever since in part to the 2 Beach, however they are now well past there function due to dieing and are in imminent danger of falling into the river, so I would rather fetch them down myself on to the top of the bank (obviously leving the stumps) as a result I need to plant 1 or 2 suitable replacement just past the potential slip point fracture (optimum angle of repose ~16ft from the bank face) so the tree stays on “solid” ground and the roots can grow into the potential slip area rather than place the trees on top of the potential slip area. Trees that seam to grow well are oak, beach, sycamore, the trees that seam to die or have trouble are ash & ironically even though there are 3 40ft+ down there alder seams to have a problem with the standing timber rotting (only 1 is healthy & its furthest from the river! lol) perhaps because it is to well drained even though they are near the river. The resion I don’t want willow is I don’t like it, it has a tendency to lean towards water, the crown is to wide, the last big willow down there fell over completely across the river and I have lost count of the other big willows that I have had of fetch out of rivers, lakes and streams due to them suddenly deciding to fall over! The river is ~80ft wide Thanks Mark

Hi people, I am after a suitable tree species for planting near the top of a high near vertical river bank (~10ft above flood height) for the purpose of stabilising the ground, currently there are 2 dead/dieing 45ft Beach trees witch are sat on a previous slight landslip ~6ft from the top of the 25ft river bank witch will be removed once the TO has found out if the 1968 blanket TPO’s still applied to the stretch of land (bearing in mind all TPO, CA, SSSI, etc in the area were reviewed last year and this 1968 was not included in the review ) so I am after a spices of tree to plant behind the Beach tree stumps ~15ft from the bank (beyond prior slip) witch has an extensive root system for its size & is relatively fast growing but is NOT a Willow! Any idea’s? Currant trees in the vicinity = alder, ash, beach, holly, oak, sycamore.

the power loss of 540/1000rpm PTO systems in Unimog is about ~15% (DIN), so a 100HP DIN at the flywheel will be 85hp DIN at the PTO shaft. u1000 (424) = engine ~95hp = PTO ~80.75hp u1000 (427) = engine ~102hp = PTO ~86.7hp u12#0 = engine ~125hp = PTO ~106.25hp u14#0 = engine ~136hp = PTO ~115.6hp u1500 = engine ~150hp = PTO ~127.5hp u16#0 = engine ~156hp = PTO ~132.6hp u17#0 = engine ~170hp = PTO ~144.5hp u21#0 = engine ~214hp = PTO ~181.9hp u24#0 = engine ~240hp = PTO ~204hp the gear ratio of the 540rpm PTO speed is 4.08:1, so 540rpm on the PTO takes place at ~2203rpm engine. the gear ratio of the 1000rpm PTO speed is 2.32:1, so 1000rpm on the PTO takes place at ~2320rpm engine. using the 1000rpm PTO speed to supply 540rpm the engine must turn NO faster than ~1253rpm. NOTE: running the engine at ~1253rpm the HP output will be much reduced from the above figures! u1000 (424) = engine @ 1250rpm = PTO ~40hp u1000 (427) = engine @ 1250rpm = PTO ~43hp u12#0 = engine @ 1250rpm = PTO ~47hp u14#0 = engine @ 1250rpm = PTO ~51hp u16#0 = engine @ 1250rpm = PTO ~60hp u17#0 = engine @ 1250rpm = PTO ~67hp u21#0 = engine @ 1250rpm = PTO ~74hp

no not yet, but i get all my parts from there, as they are alot cheeper than all the others i have found also Neil in parts is helpfull, though i do have the EPC's witch makes ordering parts easy!

http://www.ibbetts.co.uk/unimog.htm / sales / click image below "See our stock of used Unimogs"

http://www.ibbetts.co.uk/unimog/unisales/unimog_used.htm

Mm, a 6 cyl ~6000cc is going to be the best part of 550kg just as a bear unit, by the time the sub frame, cowling, rad, & drive for hydraulic motors etc are added its gong to be 750kg+ so unless the feed chute is 750kg+ its self it is not going to counter all the weight, If say the feed chute was ~250kg that would negate about ~250kg engine drive unit however to negate the other ~500kg the feed drive witch is centred ~1.5ft behind the rear axle would have to weight ~2500kg to counter the remaining ~500kg witch is centred ~5ft forward of the front axel, however all that is a little academic because if it was balanced if you put 500kg of wood on the feed chute it would lift the front of the chipper and I don’t see any support legs on the rear so I would have to guess you have a trailer hitch nose weight of ~600kg or more. Anyway FYI: TRAILERS - TOWING EYE WEIGHT: For a road truck the maximum nose weight for a “balanced” trailer is “1000kg or 10% of the trailer gross weight, whichever is less” this is an EU wide regulation covering drawbar couplings with respect to static loaded nose weigh or the “S” (Zul Stutzlast) element on EU Type Approved (TA) truck towing equipment. Given the ~6500kg gross weight the maximum nose weight on the towing eye is 650kg (10% of gross weight) when behind a truck, if the “S” value is >10% or 1000kg when uniformly loaded then the trailer is no longer a “balanced trailer” but an “unbalanced trailer” witch when towed behind a truck are illegal so are automatically classed a “semi-trailer” requiring an HGV1 driving license simply because they are illegal because they are sat in a grey area of the law (>10% <20% of the trailer gross weight superimpose on the towing vehicle) a “semi-trailer” is any trailer witch superimposes >20% of the trailer gross weight on to the towing vehicle via ANY means unless it is permanently coupled using a TA permanent coupling. The only exception to the above witch is practical are agricultural motor vehicles (AMV’s) of the type “agricultural, horticultural or forestry tractors” witch may tow “unbalanced” trailers with “S” value (static loaded nose weigh) of up to <35% of the trailer gross weight superimpose on the towing vehicle, however this only covers “agricultural trailers”, “agricultural trailed appliances (a chipper could fall in this class)” & “agricultural trailed appliance conveyers” used for agricultural, horticultural or forestry purposes only. ELECTRIC BRAKES: Electric brakes are illegal in the entire EU for ANY on-road use, the VOSA should NOT be happy at all & obviously don’t know there arse from there elbow at your local office, so unless you have it in writing from the VOSA technical HQ then I would be very wary of the information your getting from the VOSA local office. Braking regulations for vehicles and trailers are clearly set out in the Construction & Usage regulations (C&U) for weight, use, speed and type etc, in brief Car’s, trucks, vans & ALL vehicles in excess of 20mph (including Unimog’s, Fastrac & AMV’s travailing faster than >20mph): 1: if a trailer is fitted with any brake parts then the entire brake system must be in work order regardless of weight and speed. 2: trailers <750kg do not need brakes, but if they are fitted they must work. 3: trailers <3500kg may use over-run brakes OR 2 line fail-safe air brakes. 4: trailers >3500kg must use 2 line fail-safe air brakes. 5: the MINIMUM braking efficiency for trailers towed by Car’s, trucks, vans & vehicles in excess of 20mph is >50% of the trailers weight at any time and every axel must have a braking efficiency >50% of the weight superimposed on it. vehicles not exceeding <20mph (excluding Unimog’s, Fastrac & AMV’s travailing faster than >20mph): 1: if a trailer is fitted with any brake parts then the entire brake system must be in work order regardless of weight and speed. 2: trailers <750kg do not need brakes, but if they are fitted they must work. 3: trailers <3500kg may use over-run brakes OR single line hydraulic brakes OR 2 line fail-safe air brakes. 4: trailers >3500kg must use a minimum of single line hydraulic brakes OR 2 line fail-safe air brakes. 5: the MINIMUM braking efficiency for trailers towed by AMV’s that are slower than <20mph is >25% of the trailers weight at any time and every axel # must have a braking efficiency >25% of the weight superimposed on it #. # = not every axel on an agricultural trailer needs to have brakes fitted, I.e. a 2 axel trailer only needs 1 axel braked however to get the >25% of trailer weight as braking efficiency from 1 axel of a pair then that axel need a >50% braking efficiency of the weight superimposed on it to get >25% of the trailers weight as braking efficiency! 6: agricultural trailed appliances beneath 14230kg gross weight used <20mph don’t require any brakes, however if they were fitted with brake shoes/pads, drums/disks, back-plates/callipers, pull-rods/camshafts/slack-adjusters then the brakes must work via a prescribed method in the C&U regs, witch electric brakes cannot do! However if the said chipper was used just on a site witch as I cannot see any lights on it is probably the case then it is obvious that electric brakes are better than no brakes at all as per an agricultural trailed appliance in 6 above.

looks good what’s its weight? what’s the nose weight on the tow hitch? as the landing gear looks quite big and the engine is well forward to the rest of the weight I assume its on air brakes rather than the highly illegal yank electric brakes?

err why, earn money now when your young, you don’t have to spend it just save it, as it will make life a lot easer when you get older >30 because with a few years hard work now you could have a significant percentage of the money you require to buy a house & probably could then pay the remainder off before your mid 30's easily then you can relax and just do 1 or 2 days a week

Mm A C Price still don’t do things right all the time! A friend has a U1500 with a demountable crane (very nice clean machine in very good condition from A C Price ) witch he has had for ~5 years, all the servicing has been done by A C Price in that time, this time I serviced it for him and found 1: the hydraulic filter had 2 rubber compression seals missing so was lose in the housing and was not filtering oil. 2: the ATF in the PAS system hadn’t been changed for years. 3: the OS/f portal box oil hadn’t been changed at the last service and probably two or three before that. (very degraded oil vs. the other portal box’s) (I know the portal box all run within 5 deg C of each other after 100mile+ runs) (this smacks of maybe something sinister at A C Price as a portal box only has a 1:8 chance of being missed accidentally over 2+ consecutive services) 4: the brake fluid hadn’t been changed for years and was virtually as black as used engine oil. (the service interval for brake fluid is to change it once per year!) (the owner has mechanical knowledge & was shocked when he see the brake fluid coming out!) 5: the low brake fluid warning float had been totally removed from one of the caps and not replaced. 6: the clutch fluid was as per the brake fluid (virtually as black as used engine oil.) 7: one of the fuel filters was a pattern part and not even a OEM or better still a MB one, yet the other was the latest type MB one. 8: the 540/1000rpm PTO box oil hadn’t been changed for years and was very degraded (it just drives a winch!) Yet the mog only dose ~4000km a year, so go figure, as someone is charging for servicing and not doing ALL what they are charging for or what they have been asked to do or what’s specified the MB service book.