D Mc
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Everything posted by D Mc
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Wow! What an amazing piece of work! I really hate to be the bearer of bad news but things can change fast with new tools. A better spot has been found for the tender. It needs to be on just the top arms, in between the two upper links. I drilled a hole and set a metal pin for mine. Others have used bungee or throw line.
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Al, if you follow those climbers other posts you will find that most have also been testing two rope systems. For normal SRWP the BDB works great as supplied and does not need a swivel.
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In chapter 2 starting on page 16 it lists under "other classes of firearms and ammunition " several tools that could be misused, including a line launcher, that are not regulated and not to be considered firearms. The APTA is a good tool. It would be nice if you guys could use it.
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The Climbing Technology foot ascender is very comparable to the old Pantin except it has a lock on the cam. It works well. Tree Stuff - Climbing Technology Foot Ascender David
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One of my all time favorites.
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No, I have not. I'm not a real fan of those kind of setups for what we do. They are great for access and kind of awkward for everything else. David
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Adam, the HH works great on a tether. When you flick the HH quickly up the rope, the weight of the unit will carry it to the tether's end and it will lock off with almost no setback. Things to watch out for, though, is the tether length needs to be just long enough to work but not so long you can't reach the hitch and because you will be using the carabiner for a handle, make sure it is oriented so when you grab hold of it your grip and pull does not activate the gate lock. After the right length was found, I had a short tether made with tight eyes. With a carabiner on both ends it is quick to switch from the bridge ring to tether and back as needed. I have been using the new HAAS knee ascender Tree Stuff - HAAS Ascent System and it is the best setup for a knee ascender I have ever used. It is much smaller and more compact when you are holding it than it looks like in the pics and vids. David
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Try this. Figure 8 Double Loop | How to tie the Figure 8 Double Loop | Climbing Knots
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Jack's a smart guy and there is nothing wrong with his setup. I like your choice of the double 8 knot better as it is the more stable. The problem I have with the double loop knots, is they work great when the two loops are under load, but when not they can be plucked or distorted. It is not really a problem, just something that bugs me so I go a different way. Also, to be honest, I rarely choke tie as 99% of the time I find a base tie to be a better option. David
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Well, the way I use the Maillon fits my needs very well. Double loop knots with a carabiner can be good or less so dependent on the knot used and its orientation. As far as the side loading strength of a Maillon goes, as long as you use the right size and close it properly, in my experience, the rope will always break first. Maillons are painfully slow when compared to a carabiner, but they are strong. David
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Al, the snap I use on my chest harness is a small brass hook that has a swivel on it. This keeps everything fair and tending as it should. If you need or just want to stay with the horizontal biner, you could try using something like a twisted metal clothes hanger. This gets bent into a u shape with an extra half twist on the top so everything stays fair with the chest biner. What are you using as a chest harness? For what you are trying to do, one that can be quickly changed in length will be the most useful but is not mandatory. David
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Sorry, Adam, but I'm with Al on this one. The maillon is strong and safe, and midline attachable. I use it all the time, in many different ways and trust it, once tightened, as much as I trust the single nut that is used to hold on my truck's steering wheel, that keeps it from falling off. David
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LOL! Good to hear that the AP is working well for you. Just a tip on it though, it lasts forever but loses some of it's feel well before it is worn out. If it starts to become less functional, just chuck it and put on a new piece. David
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I, also, would like to see a picture of your idea. It is almost impossible for me to get a new piece of kit and not start fiddling around with ways to make it better. I tried lots of different things with the HH. Some things worked well, some did not, but I think it is telling that the way I like it best and the way I use it, is the way it came. Plain and simple, it is a great tool. Glad you're enjoying it, Ian. David
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There will be a lot of personal preference in a response to this type of question, but I would recommend staying with a fat rope, at least for now. When first making the change to SRT-WP you will probably be over using your arms, until you figure things out. Having a fat rope will take some of the pain away from your hands and arms due to it being easier to hang on to. For improving the flow you could try a 24 strand double braid like Vortex. The thin ropes will run smoother but will need to have the hitch adjusted just right in order to be both functional and safe. Have fun with your HH, you made a good choice. David
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I know it can be a real challenge coming up with an advancing loop that works well. It might be worth your while trying some different materials like accessory cord or even stiff wire. Being able to keep the Hitch Hiker high and tight to your chest when using a knee and foot ascender, makes for a sweet ascent system. David
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The Hitch Hiker will advance smoother and with less set back if you clip to the advancing loop as opposed to the bridge ring. David
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Samson Vortex, soft and smooth. It has great knotability, flows well and is so easy to grab you don't need a hand ascender for grip to pull yourself up. David
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The old Croll, which is what I am using works great on 13 mm line. I think it was a real mistake for Petzl to change this on the new one. This one should work fine though. Tree Stuff - DMM Anthron Chest Ascender
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I didn't mention this because you mentioned not wanting to buy more gear, but this set-up will do what you are asking for very well. Pantin, Croll with foot loop, wire gate Revolver and a length of bungee cord with a small clip on both ends. It is fast on and off and uses just your legs so your arms are free to use as needed. David
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Just change to a Hitch Hiker or Rope Wrench. Foot lock the tail. Up and down all day long, fast and safe. David
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Yes, it is one of the earlier all steel test beds. The simplicity of the concept and it's functionality, amazed ( and still does ) me. David
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You should try it and see what happens. I pull mine all the way out ( until it stops ) all the time and it always rewinds. I never would have thought that some wouldn't. David
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I don't think that will help. That will give you more spring tension but not change the ratchet/rope orientation which is what is most likely the reason behind it not being able to rewind after pulling out all the rope. David
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I think it might be that the locking ratchet is in a locked location at the same point as your rope runs out and in the normal rope routing the spring has some movement left so a tug will allow it to rewind. Daid
