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arboriculturist

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Everything posted by arboriculturist

  1. arboriculturist
    Jon The best mix for perpetually wet ground would be Common Alder and the 'pioneer' species - Silver Birch. Both fast growing and will give you some quality Firewood in the future. Don't forget decent 14/16 canes and tree guards. The planting season will soon be upon us - Good luck
  2. arboriculturist
    Perhaps I'm missing the point - Someone said - " whoever gets qualified to Mill timber "
  3. arboriculturist
    I am looking to get employee's trained in basic milling with a portable or static bandsaw mill. Woodnet and Plumpton College run a Lantra 'Selecting and Milling Timber' course. As far as I can see there is no NPTC course available. Can anyone advise me if there are recognised training courses available, that lead to an ' Industry Standard ' qualification, recognised by the H & S executive? Thanks.
  4. arboriculturist

    346xp

    arboriculturist replied to fonzy's topic in Chainsaws

    That's VERY VERY good advice ! Ist hand experience of that.
  5. arboriculturist

    346xp

    arboriculturist replied to fonzy's topic in Chainsaws

    Ah - that's a great tip - Aspen. Thanks
  6. arboriculturist

    346xp

    arboriculturist replied to fonzy's topic in Chainsaws

    We've had a bunch of Stihl and Husky's with fuel line issues - especially if like us you keep them for years, wanting to get every last revolution we can from them! Changing them on all saws over 3 years now - low cost insurance. Some would disagree of course.
  7. arboriculturist

    346xp

    arboriculturist replied to fonzy's topic in Chainsaws

    I have a 346XP Did 12 years before piston / barrel issues - best saw ever. Fitted non OEM piston/barrel kit - running perfectly - time will tell. I'd pay £ 350 if comp. good and it only had little use.
  8. arboriculturist
    Woodland thinnings, hardwood 250 - 300 mm, no oversize, 1 man on his own including handling and maintenance - 4m3 / hr once proficient
  9. arboriculturist
    Here we go Jon: Tractor at 480 rpm. At best a 360 will produce 35m3 / 10 hours with Softwood 2 men. I man/machine loading, taking away, crosscutting/splitting oversize. Hardwood can take double or 2 1/2 times that time on an average load of Woodland thinnings. Processing bars and you will definately not sell the amount it will process. I don't like like chunky great logs that over 300mm diameter roundwood produces, so avoid processing over that.
  10. arboriculturist
    Is there a strong market for used Alaskans, if we buy one then upgrade to a bandsaw?
  11. arboriculturist
    That will be me John - i'll sort now:001_rolleyes:
  12. arboriculturist
    That's sound advice. I have seen many posts on the Forum where others have struggled to market their products. I anticipated slabbing 2" /2 1/2" & 3" which is what the majority of joiners use, along with 6" x 12" lintels. Anyone else any ideas of what sells? It can sit there stickered up for as long as required to sell. I have been told by many, there is a strong demand for air dried British hardwoods. I am thinking its all about building a reputation for quality products at a good price. It's going to have to be the Bandsaw route though - Woodmizer LT70 I expect unless I encounter anything better for a similar price. Any replies welcome.
  13. arboriculturist
    Ask Big J
  14. arboriculturist
    Did you buy a new Woodmizer just for oversize timber, if you don't mind me asking?
  15. arboriculturist
    Apologies, rush read your post - I though you were planning to dry quantity. Without a Kiln fastest way to dry your timber is outside on pallets, orientate pallets to allow prevailing wind to blow between rows of logs, stacked single rows, gap between rows and cover with Corrugated iron.
  16. arboriculturist
    Yes, but I'm still looking forward to some good advice on which mill others recommend to produce specific sawn timber that there is :thumbup1:always demand for.
  17. arboriculturist
    It's a non starter for several of the above reasons. Drying timber usually requires a hefty investment or a lot of prior knowledge about force drying and the ability to source the correct used equipment at low cost / knowledge to design an efficient system.
  18. arboriculturist
    We have the saw for Alaskan, but it seems that moving straight to a bandsaw setup would be the fast-track route to what we really need.
  19. arboriculturist
    Thanks, that's sound advice. Always seems criminal to turn decent timber over 300mm into Firewood. I'm still exploring the economics of investing in a bandsaw, however that would be a steep learning curve. Keen to avoid the pitfalls.
  20. arboriculturist
    Agreed, the setup time has to be considered. I did PM you about Bandsaws etc a few days ago - expect u r very busy like us.
  21. arboriculturist
    Can anyone give my some idea of 'generally' what they consider is the smallest diameter roundwood worth milling ? We have stacks of 2.4 x 500mm downwards - Oak, Chestnut, Ash, Sycamore Alder etc. Any replies appreciated.
  22. arboriculturist
    Bargain:thumbup1:
  23. arboriculturist
    Ah yes and some decent cages if I recall - a real naturalist
  24. arboriculturist
    The very basics: Cost a full load of timber. Cost the overheads to process the load. Multiply by no of loads over 12 months. Cost your business overheads over 12 months. Decide the margin you wish to make per m3. = retail price / m3
  25. arboriculturist
    I can't remember if you kiln dry? Oh and thanks for the info

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