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arboriculturist

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Everything posted by arboriculturist

  1. PL ins. gives peace of mind and can set you apart from others. If someday an individual decides to persue a claim against you - you will be relieved you are covered and the annual premium is small. Take out Insurance against HMRC Investigations for Vat and Tax - worth every penny. Everything covered and you can relax and focus on running a, professional, efficient operation.
  2. That's looks like a tidy business you're operating there:001_smile: A decent floor surface is everything. I agree about the economics of trying to glean every last inch and experience usually tell you when to stop. One reason I published this post ' Re: % wastage from ...... is as I am considering buying a Mill I wish to fully research the economics before committing. Thanks for posting.
  3. There has been a great response to my post - so thanks for the efforts put in. It is very apparent that when softwood saw logs arrive at £120 m3 + haulage retailing the sawn product at £250 - £300 a cube is a realistic figure. I would endeavour as you mention, to use every part of the log, anything else would be poor stock management:thumbup1:
  4. Wow Jon! - Well you should know. I vote you produce and publish 'The Big J foot guide' - who knows it may be more lucrative and easier on the body than milling! Have you a view on Hardwoods? 40% wastage also?
  5. That is possibly the best guide out there - 20% average. I don't suppose the team of experts who drafted the 'hoppus foot guide' did their calculations on the back of a fag packet.
  6. Thanks for the range of replies - Referring back to my question: " I am just looking for an estimated average % of waste." Is 25% 'the answer' most of you would given the hundreds of variables? I would be using a mill costing 30K new - if bought in the UK.
  7. What use did you have in mind for the CPH plant?
  8. I am trying to determine approx. how much waste there is on average, when milling a mixed diameter load of SOFTWOOD sawlogs from 400mm up to the larger sizes. We get 20 tonne loads at a time. Whoever I ask seem to give wildly varying replies, with lots of 'ifs' and 'buts'. I am just looking for an estimated average % of waste. Thankyou for any replies in advance.
  9. What do you use for a lanyard Steve and what karabiner ? Had a petzl grillon and 5m lanyard - next best to Art P or Zillon.
  10. Not inexpensive Jon - but worth every penny Pulsar Nightsight LRF N870. I only have a .22.
  11. They know their products and give good advice.
  12. There are several online - we even get Hardox profiles cut.
  13. Buy from a Steel Stock-holder, as will be 1/2 the price. Many offer a cutting service. Buy double the steel thickness you have now. They will advise , which grade appropriate. Good luck:001_smile:
  14. Solar Kiln Dried - Yes, that's got a certain ring to it. Sounds environmentally sound and I hope one day to find the time to develop that approach to drying myself to suppliment existing methods I have pioneered. Just got to do the legwork and complete the learning curve, using the principles I have developed an understanding of over the years. Solar Kiln drying needs no rebuttal, rather it should be applauded.
  15. Agree - they make solid engineered equipment. The Kiln. You will be amazed how much timber you need to burn and at what rate to get the temperature up, especially in the early stages of drying. You are going to need that firebox at full tilt for some time to achieve anywhere near the drying times you wished for. Remember - dry fuel < 20% and condense the fuel. Some may have other views. Keep us posted.
  16. I think you will have to condense the fuel in order to achieve the output you require. Was the fuel product guidance that came with the boiler specifying specific fuel / specs. Dense fuel ever more crucial with small fireboxes and fan assisted combustion. Getting close to a chip boiler. If bugs me everytime I order a stack of milled timber when we could easily run a mill ourselves with the facilities we have. Their double edge bander look the works! Did you get to see it in op. when over there? What edger do you use at present?
  17. You could do with bundling up that slabwood into tight billets Jon. U could band up lengths then crosscut into 0.5m billets, then easy throw in. Those hourly fuelling visits are crazy - 2 hrs will be possible if you take my advice. Your fires are not intense enough - loose slabs, burn in a flash - get fuel condensed and watch temp. rise. More importantly - HOW GOES THE MILL ?
  18. That's interesting. So using this theory are you suggesting that a customer gets less weight in a m3 of 8" logs than a m3 of 12" logs? (I know we don't sell by weight, so perhaps I should say less volume of solid wood) I can see you have a solid understanding of timber volumes - would you be able to give percentages for 8", 10" and 12" logs? The small the logs the more labour etc. etc. is a given of course.
  19. How did you calculate?: "they'll be getting less solid volume for the same bulk volume" Comparing say 8" with 10". Thanks
  20. Get an experience Fencing Contractor and you will save yourself a lot of time / money and avoid asking questions on a Forum. I think if you started advising a decent Tree Surgeon how to do his/her job - they may possibly take offence!
  21. I would be looking to contact 2 or 3 Agricultural fencing businesses and ask to see their work. If you know little about fencing, take someone with you who does! Then get quotes from who you see as the most proficient. Professional fencing contractors usually have the best, most efficient gear and are the most competitive for those reasons. Fencing other than gentle curves has many pitfalls when constructing stock fencing e.g. uprating stake diameter to 5-6" top etc. etc. - otter fencing may be different (if only for otters) as you are not securing huge beasts. Good luck.
  22. Yes, mould not an issue as the whole objective is to dry the wood close to 20%. That's what a quality timber should always be as you know.
  23. Mould fortunately will not be a problem, as algae, litchens and fungi are generally temperature sensitive, in addition to the short drying cycle time - any existing organisms will simply dessicate

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