arboriculturist

Its a process of elimination. Check continuity of wires: To tipper switch / From tipper switch to solenoid / from battery to solenoid / from solenoid to tipper motor. If no continuity then either a break in wire / loose - corroded connection - corrosion inside a cable crimp end. Test tipper switch works. Best way to test continuity is with a multimeter with an audible continuity test function. Sounds like an issue with the tipper motor though and the live feed to solenoid also if no voltage there.

Wow, I never thought we would see the day when you would go down that route having sold a successful mill previously. I stand corrected but isn't that a line turning cants into dimensioned boards ? So we wait with interest to see what you migrate into next in the timber world.

Manual Hydraulic Toe Board is £ 490 +vat - essential really for log centering.

Yes I agree and the B1001 is a heavier build construction than the B751 and the additional width can't make that much difference to milling speed. Sounds like 23hp is ample power as it will be fairly rare milling anywhere near full width. I have a Panther on a 660 if the need arises. Panther is great for slabs but even with the intersect which I have, milling accurate dimensional timber is not easy. It would be luxury having a decent mill. Deciding where demand lies for particular forms of milled timber is something I am unsure of still ? Someone on here will now what the best sellers are hopefully.

Yes I agree, but maybe not be that much difference - thankyou - still not sure on width. Some say the B1001 is a heavier build construction by I do not know. Thankyou.

Thankyou for your reply. Looking on their Website - Not sure wether I need the larger 27hp model offered by Logosol by what people say. Also may be better to buy the 751 for accuracy by the feedback on here comparing it to the 1001. I have a Manitou rough terrain Forklift and 7.5T Hitachi Excavator with a 3 tonne Botex grab, so the handling is good. I am really not sure where the market demand lies and where best to promote the products. I was thinking Live edge Larch cladding, gate posts, Oak beams. I am not keen on specific custom orders but I may be wrong. Where to promote to avoid the time wasters is another question. Of course there is Ebay, Gumtree, Preloved, Facebook Marketplace. I can easily construct a Website if that is the way to go. Any advice would be great - I know how to market other products but not sawn timber. Thankyou.

Nice timber and nice workshop - Both milled with the Logosol 751 ?

Has anyone on here: 1 - Bought a Logosol 1001 23hp petrol Bandsaw Mill and 2 - Made any money milling larch cladding etc. with it. ? Any insights into how good the machine is and wether it is worth the investment would be most welcome. We get a lot of oversize timber delivered (hard and soft) at Firewood prices that is a pain to process into firewood and plenty of Larch and Douglas that is the ideal size for live edge cladding. I also need a lot of timber for building projects etc etc. myself. Thankyou for any replies in advance.

Has anyone on here: 1 - Bought a Logosol 1001 23hp petrol Bandsaw Mill and 2 - Made any money milling larch cladding etc. with it. ? Any insights into how good the machine is and wether it is worth the investment would be most welcome. We get a lot of oversize timber delivered (hard and soft) at Firewood prices that is a pain to process into firewood and plenty of Larch and Douglas that is the ideal size for live edge cladding. Thankyou for any replies in advance.

Woah, quite a few options there thankyou. At least I have an idea what will work reasonably well on and off road. Tyres are quite subjective by all accounts !

Someone mentioned General Grabber ?

Old Weller Wheels - that's going back a bit. I will search for the Kumho, not come across them. Thankyou.

The aging Ranger needs new tyres and with the trend of 6 months of relentless rain every year they need to be good. The M+S that are on there have been almost useless. I rarely travel more than 5 mile radius, so tyre road noise is irrelevant. I am hoping there will be a definitive answer and this is certainly the best pace for experienced advice. Thankyou in advance.

Sounds perfect to me Steve - I will report back in due course 👌

Maybe Spud has done these mods in the past ?

Yes it is - the MS150 C and there is no torx screw - it is 100% one piece with nothing removable. Can I still mod this Steve ?

Ideal - Stihl diagram is slightly different than the L&S ones I have used. I shall post how this all pans out. Thankyou.

Excellent ! I will change the old for a new nylon filter. This 12 year old saw has a single piece muffler with no top cover. Yes very good learning curve.

Thankyou Steve. I have the bare engine on the bench clutch and flywheel off. There is definitely some in and out movement and up and down movement of the crank in the bearings. This saw has had a lot of use, so I would expect some wear in the bearings over 12 years of use. I find it easy to work on. I have a good level of engineering skill, not on your level of course. I have no hesitation in pulling the bearings and replacing. I cannot see on any schematic of a MS150 C if there is a seal between the 2 halves of the crankcase, you would know of course. Some may say I am wasting my time, but parts are lo cost for this saw and I am happy to persist.

Ok, so I have ' grabbed the bull by the horns ' like a lot of you would do. Checked the impulse and fuel pipes - perfect. Rubber carb manifold - perfect. On close inspection with just the engine unit in my hands it is apparent that there is some end float movement and some lateral movement of the crankshaft. I could see bubbles in soapy water around crank seals after sealing exhaust and inlet ports and blowing gently into inpulse spigot in barrel - so they are leaking air. I could replace bearings and seals myself ( I have no bearing puller) or give to someone to replace ? Parts are all lo-cost items as are the crankcase and barrel gaskets. Any thoughts

A lot of sound advice from everyone thankyou. Yes this is an old saw and I like to get a long life out of my equipment, saws included. Spud fitted a new barrel / piston and ported the Husky 346XP which is now 26 years old. Better than the day I bought it. Yes replaced odd bits and pieces but that is still a tremendous machine. I accept that the time does come when repairs become uneconomic and this is looking like one of those times. I am not sure if I can pull those bearings without a puller though if I go down that road ?

Thanks for replying : 1. New air filter fitted - no difference. 2. Muffler clear. Piston perfect. Port already spotless of carbon. 3. Flywheel area clear as I had flywheel off to check keyway was perfect. Engine mounts good and I took the stop switch out of the equation. This may or may or not be relevant - but the saw will only run for 10 or 20 seconds with the choke on and held on full throttle.

I take your point and that was my initial thought, especially as many of the parts on that saw will fit the 150 TC's.

I have a Stihl MS 150 C and a Stihl MS 150 TC. Both are 12 years old. The MS 150 C has become harder to start over a few weeks and now after getting it started it will barely run at low revs for more than 10 seconds before cutting out. I stripped the carb, found nothing amiss and built it up again and re-fitted. Same symptoms. So removed carb and fitted it to the MS 150 TC and this saw ran perfectly with the MS 150 C carb. I tested the resistance of the coil, which appeared as specified. So I removed the coil off the MS 150 C and fitted it to the MS 150 TC. Pulled it over and it started 1st pull, revved up fine and ticked over perfectly. I am thinking crank seals but have no way of testing crankcase pressure. This saw has done a fair amount of work. There appears to be the slightest of play on the flywheel end of the crank, which is the end I looked at. If the crank seals need replacing what is the likely cost if I gave it to someone stripped already and is it worth it on this 12 year old saw ? These are the only saws I have that Spud has not ported ! Any replies much appreciated.