RC0

Gord, you are the main man!

I'm looking right at it Steve, is it all in my mind or can anyone else view it?

Whether you have already or are considering a future purchase of one of these products, please watch the video. Both are protected by Registered Design. Thanks Steve Bullman. [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ9UzjBw3GM]YouTube - Stein RC1&2000 Lowering devices[/ame]

Bob, its just an exercise/assessment, you'll get it next time. Feel bad when you cut through your hinge and send it through a house, not this. Losing the money/cost is annoying, but nothing more.

Thanks for all the input/replies. I started on the original 020....with the cast body. When the 020T came out it was light weight and balanced etc but totally lacking in cutting speed compared to the original....plenty of high revs but soon slowed down when you hit dense wood, kinda like the 084 v 090. One of the selling points of the 020t at the time was that the bar was designed to lift when you hit the revs....for one handling, why else. At the time you could also remove the spark arrestor on those particular mufflers, which made a big difference to the output. My first 335 was a terrific cutter, for a while at least....and I preferred the fact that it was nose-heavy....more accurate finishing cuts and used to hit the target first time when I was at full stretch. However, carb problems were on the horizon and as MattyF pointed out, that spark plug cover was and still is a woeful design. I think I might give the 338 a go regardless, I’ll let you know how it works out.

Sick of that ----! last 2 out of 3 Ive owned have been duff (carbs). Any good reports on the alternatives? Thanks

Excellent choice Liam. Had mine 3-4 years now mainly on a 30in....been 100% reliable:thumbup1:

Sorry Doug I dont know, still being worked out I guess.

Thanks, really glad you like the idea. However, I had to relace the vid altogether....there were a couple of mistakes in it. I had a whole week to make it but instead rushed it through in a day. Let that be a lesson to me. Here's the revised version, sorry for any confusion. Its still processing on youtube right now so the picture quality will improve in an hour or so. Thanks again [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GPdKmVuVR-4]YouTube - Stein crane bag web 2.wmv[/ame]

3 more. Thanks

It’s not only mature trees in tight spots that warrant hiring a crane....and when that hook effortlessly plucks those tops up and away in the lashing rain, it’s almost like getting a helping hand from God himself. This was an awkward site to get the crane to though, and we had lots of building waste and machines to swap around beforehand. The rain was non-stop and quite a wind-chill up on the bank. I personally wasn’t best organised, forgot my chokers and the new crane-bag....but we managed and the site was clear by 3pm. The crane was a 25t, and only just enough reach for some of the tops. In spite of the clouds the photos are ok, mainly because Andrew was able to stand up on the bank behind me, almost level.

Whether you already practice crane-assisted tree removals, or are just looking to get started, this product has the potential to make things a little easier. Photos of the set-up also just recently posted in the Photo forum (poplar removals). Thanks [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PXVx3ehDYIk]YouTube - Stein Crane Bag[/ame]

Thanks alot guys:thumbup1: A marine company spliced the dead-eyes Carl. The Bag is a new design specially for crane rigging. I got sick of slings getting caught and snagged on the way through canopies etc so came up with the idea. Available soon. I'll have some video explaining the whole technique in the next couple of days. Stevie, yes the orange slings are just to stabalise....choke first at the COG then stabalise if need be. If not, the slings can be left tucked in the bag without getting in the way. The Crane was really the only way to go because of the hedge almost directly underneath. I think 5-6 cuts average per tree. Heaviest top was 4 tons. Sorry if I ve missed anyone, thanks again.

Western, the Job was in Manchester.

and more

This climbing job was for a company called Ecos, great bunch of guys. Special thanks goes to climber Keith Berry, for patiently watching my back from the ground throughout the duration of the two days. There were eight tree’s in total (poplars), although two were small enough to lift out whole. From a climbing point of view, the work was relatively easy....although we had heavy rain throught the whole of day 1 which ruined much of the photo’s and video. Almost 50 photo’s in total so it might take be while to upload them all. Thanks

Guys, thank you very much for your patience in waiting for the availability of the Stein RC Rigging products. Whether you’ve bought one already, have one on pre-order, or decide to buy one in the future, I sincerely hope they prove to be a worthy investment. Producing the 5 products in the space of 12 months turned out to be a more lengthily process than I think any of us had first anticipated….I mean its not rocket science but there’s still a right way of doing it, and it just takes time to work through the whole process. A word on the 3001: The instruction manual is long….and not my fault. But please, please read it and take it on board. Don’t assume you can to just take the device out of the box and use it any old way. The recent videos for the 3002 device are also worth a watch as both devices have many of the same features. We further expect the Dual 3002 to be ready in the next couple of weeks, now that is a lowering device! If you have any queries or issues about the methodology and practicalities of the RC range then I don’t mind answering as best as I can via email [email protected] , even if I can’t reply immediately….calling me out on the forum though is really not the way to go. Thanks again.

Stevie, there are so many variables, which is why I’m wary about answering specifics on the subject….I don’t want anyone assuming a single method is right for all circumstances….especially when you’re dealing with logs that a capable of reducing a person to a mere red streak down the side of a trunk. In general though - two cuts as opposed to one, whether matching or stepped carry a greater risk of shock loading, whether under or over tensioned i.e. when the log is released it happens very suddenly….and things can get really bad if you further haven’t made allowances for deflection. Don’t get me wrong, step or matching cuts have there place, I use them often but never when approaching a WLL. If you still must, then the unequal proportions of the opposing cuts, + the choker position is all vital to releasing the log smoothly. Minimum effort, maximum leverage in other words.

Stevie, If the boom and chokers are in the right spot, the wedge shouldn’t play a part, mainly its there as back-up. It would be pretty hollow for me to say what I would’ve done because I wasn’t there living that moment, Pete was. You can only do what feels right for you at the time.

That’s the one Peter. Always dump the necessary amount of chain on top of the spar, configure your chokers then slowly slip them over the edge and into position….one at a time of course. A straight-through cut makes for an easier lift all round though, take my word for it. Nice work all the same, well done:thumbup1:

I can appreciate that Steve. The prussik is just starting point really, the cheapest option. Folks can always better/fine-tune things to their on preferences there after.

Target trees. The 3100 pulley obviously took shape to be user friendly in both set-up and application. I used the same method that you described with just a cord and regular pulley in first trialling the technique itself. The end result was exactly the same, but it required an extra link (Karabiner) and the cheek on the pulley really needed to be closed as it wasn’t designed to be loaded in such way....as well as keeping the rope which would occasionally flip over the edge of the wheel as it neared the Lowering device…. subsequently resulting in people falling on their arses. While the above considerations were not huge problems, it still made for an otherwise flawed technique. That said, the 3100 pulley doesn’t require a Karabiner and the gully is cut extra deep to keep the rope in position (see photo). Little things sometimes make a big difference, especially if you’re the sole grounds person. I recently received some feedback from a guy in the US who works for Bartlets. I know I shouldn’t duplicate the email without his permission but I’ll take a chance that he won’t be too mad at me upon finding out. The pulley is manufactured at ISC Wales and will take a rope upto 19mm diam. Best of luck mate, whatever you decide. Reg, FYI, I have been using the pre-tension pulley almost daily. It is one of the best tools I've seen come out in a long time. There are a lot of tools coming out that look really cool and work, but they are usually cost more than they benefit. Your pulley is great for lifting small limbs, putting extra tension on the rope for swinging and false crotching. I didn't like using a Prusik chord to attach it to the rope, so I use a 3/4" Gibbs ascender. Please let me know when they will be available to purchase in the US or the UK. Thanks for everything. Jim Ackerman Division 12 Safety & Training Coordinator ISA Certified Arborist CTSP Bartlett Tree Experts

Two videos of mounting and application. I’m not trying to resurrect old discussion, but I do need to log the demo’s on a few sites’ for people to refer to if need be. Thanks for your patience. Set-up: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MPdjoPhJbCw]YouTube - Stein RC 3002 Tree Lowering Device - Mounting[/ame] Application: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=462bNzBgP9c]YouTube - Stein RC3002 Lowering Device - Applications[/ame] The second one was still proccessing at the time I posted so the quality might not be too good just yet.

A good job well documented Rupe:thumbup1:

Good work Steve, nice location too. Did they ask you to fell the trunk at the end or did you voluteer?