Paul Barton
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Everything posted by Paul Barton
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Porous surfaces such as arbor resin may be a solution too. They are designed to have some flex to allow for root growth without causing cracking.
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I love that avenue! I found this snippet on a BBC news website BBC - Dorset - Nature - Beech Avenue
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Try Andrew Cowan at Thermoecology. His 'thermoecology' website does not appear to work any more, but his main website is Arborecology Ltd
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Hang on a minute there, you didn't actually write the British Standard! -
Very nice Scott. Love the choice of pictures and careful use of limited amounts of text.
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I wouldn't get your panties in a twist about it - remember that British Standards are RECOMMENDATIONS not rules or regulations. Also, do you really think that a climber is supposed to take a measuring tape in to the tree with them in order to ensure that their cuts are the correct diameter? And how is a TO or supervisor going to check that, or the number of cuts made during a reduction? The BS is guidance for good practise, nothing more. As I said before, we should all digest the contents and know the new BS well - it's a good document overall I think with some significant improvements on the 1989 version. But just remember it's not the law!
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Oh, sorry mate I didn't mean to come over condescending. I can't say I have witnessed it no, I am just going on what I have read and been taught.
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Ha ha, this is so true! Although I agree with Tony that we should all get to know the new 3998 well, I wouldn't be too worried about being caught out by a TO - unless you are writing a tender document or something.
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It is sometimes explained as a way of avoiding 'heave' i.e. the swelling of soil that has previously been home to a tree which has drawn away alot of moisture. The thinking is that by removing the tree over a number of seasons, the soil has time to 'adjust' to the extra moisture that is present because the tree is not removing it. However, as far as I am aware (and I ain't no subsidence expert) the soil will always return to its original soil moisture content (all other things being equal) once the tree has gone, whether it takes 3 years or 3 hours with an 088! If the house/extension was built after the tree was there, and the soil is a clay, the swollen soil could lift the building. If the house was there before the tree, the soil will return to its previous state and the house will return to its original position. Sorry to derail Steve - have you decided what you are going to recommend?
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But Steve has said that the tree is not on a clay soil, so he doesn't need to be concerned about water uptake. Subsidence caused by trees can only occur on clay soils with a high plasticity i.e. ability to swell and contract. The research I have read about this indicates that reducing/pruning is ineffective for reducing water uptake - after one year the tree will have put grown enough foliage back to compensate that the water uptake will be the same. And the staged removals are also a myth - probably conjured up by an arborist looking for repeat business:sneaky2:
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Thats what I feared! Surely we should be able to substantiate a reason for removal better than a feeling. Having said all this in defence of the tree, if the owner wants to remove it then I wouldn't stand in their way. It's their property and their tree after all.
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Too close for what?
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As above, the highest anchor point you can get is the first step. When I started I found it helpful to keep my body facing my anchor and get your head right out above the edge of the crown - that way you can look around and see the shape from the edge. The hardest thing at first is to visualise the shape from the inside so if you can get right out to the tips it is much easier. After that it's about cutting to nodes/growth points that will accentuate the natural shape. Try to cut to nodes that leave growth in a naturally flowing direction. Some species are easier than others that's for sure. And always start at the top centre point and work away from that. Don't be tempted to work upwards or sideways. Practice makes perfect!
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What a great job and an extremely enticing set of pictures to wet the appetite! Hope you find the right person David - I would imagine with the job market as it is at the moment you will have a pick of some excellent candidates.
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Wow, what a lovely tree! If the soil is not a clay with a high plasticity, there shouldn't be effects in terms of ground swelling/heave following tree removal. In my opinion, the cracks in the pavement are caused by direct physical pressure from roots, not ground movement. If there are no signs of cracking in the actual property, I wouldn't recommend anything. I would say that unless there is a broken drain under the house, the roots are going to head out away from the house in to preferential soil - around the side of the house and along front gardens where there is more readily available water resources. My tuppence worth anyway.
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How old is the tree and how old is the house/extension? Are you definitely on a clay soil?
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PTI 3 day course in a week prep advice please
Paul Barton replied to Tony.Price's topic in Training & education
And don't be tempted to treat it like real life. It's an exam where you are scored so write down as much as you can to demonstrate your knowledge. I found that they liked long overblown recommendations for further investigation etc, even though in real life I would probably have quickly weighed up the options and then recommended to fell! -
PTI 3 day course in a week prep advice please
Paul Barton replied to Tony.Price's topic in Training & education
Brush up on some of the legal aspects of tree ownership and legislation as well - these will feature in the written exam. -
Crikey Kev, those are pretty shocking! Thanks everyone, these are great.
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These are great, thanks guys. I am looking for a photo or two to use on some marketing material - obviously subject to the owner's permission and negotiations. I hope you don't mind me asking on here - library pictures of failed trees are hard to come by! It's not a competition but I will obviously PM the owner of a photograph I would like to use. Keep 'em coming! (Besides, even if nothing works out I think it's a worthwhile picture thread for reference).
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I like these the best, but they are even more ridiculously expensive than the Suunto ones Haglof Electronic Clinometer I have no allegiance to Honey Bros but they were the first Haglof stockist I found with a Google search.
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Hi chaps and chappettes, I am looking for some good quality tree failure pictures, preferably showing damaged property. Have any of you got some you would be willing to post? Paul
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A simple solution to Planning and Trees?
Paul Barton replied to Andy Collins's topic in Business Management
But the fact that the LA did in the end confirm the TPO means that they always intended to do so. If you as a 'licensed contractor' went and felled the trees after the initial order has expired, you would be correct in the eyes of the law but working against the end desire of the LA. This is why I don't believe a LA would consider such an scheme. Nice idea though Andy! -
Tree Felling Training In the West Midlands Area
Paul Barton replied to moteor's topic in Training & education
I have to disagree. As a large Arb Approved company we will not take anyone on without NPTC tickets. I do agree that having CS30/31/38/39 does not mean you know how to do tree work though! -
K. deusta was my first thought too, but everyone who has looked at the tree in real life (which doesn't include me so far...) has so far not found any fruiting bodies like K.deusta. Is it possible that the decay was aggressive enough to topple the tree without even fruiting? I will try and get a pic of the fruiting body sliced in half tomorrow.
