back strap cut, whats the point?

[drinksloe]

Hey drink

 

Mate just do your 32 it's a good course as you learn quite a bit unlike some others that is just ticking a box. You will learn all the compound cuts and how to use them. Also if your a bit confused about terminology it may clarify.

 

Also sure you know but your description about sap cuts is a bit wrong. Never bore below hinge. You just need 45 degree scores at apex of hinge.

 

Sorry no puns I'm not that smart.

 

Cheers,

James.

 

 

Cheers james.

 

Actually done my 32 years ago, probably before all these cuts had names.

 

Lst time i was shown about sap wood cuts u cut/scribed a short cut directly below hinge either side, mibbee 4" or more so not weakening too much but would break off instead of holding and splitting the timber. More for large hairy outside softwoods

But then again mibee calling sap wood cuts the wrong thing.

 

Think most of my cutting techniques/work practices are now frowned upon by fisa

[flatyre]

No offence mate but Im really quite gobsmacked as too why you've even asked that...

 

Reason is i'm an amateur not a professional. I have recently started up my own landscaping business as that is what I've done for almost twenty years. Started cutting hedges for customers and before I knew it people were asking me to trim and top conifer hedges, next thing i'm being asked to fell trees. Now I know the limits of my current skills so stick to small work, for bigger jobs I sub in fully qualified tree surgeons, some are on the forum. It does eat into the profits but some day when I have a few spare ££££ I will get the relevant certificates. In the meanwhile I try to learn as much through working with pros as possible. But given the confusion amongst fellow members who are trained and certified, you'll have to forgive an amateur like me. Anyone know any good up to date books on basic tree work?

[Marc Lewis]

What is the hairy pie cut?

 

Similar to the furry muff cut.

[felixthelogchopper]

Similar to the furry muff cut.

 

Call me fussy but I like to the see all the epicormic removed.

[drinksloe]

It's just the names that have totally confused me

 

Got a feeling if i type hairy muff cut into google my computer will explode:001_tongue:

 

 

In my opinion its more about ur common sense and eye for where the wieght is and having the 'feel' for where saw/bar is, no good naming cuts if u can't tell when to use them (not saying that is case here). Worked with young guys in past who could name things i hadnae a clue about but i wouldnae trust with nail scissors.

 

I was just taught ur classic gub/felling cut, a cut for felling forward leaning (ur dogs tooth type) and back leaning a split level and ur letter box type? for removing a hinge on stuck up trees. Honestly cannae mind them having names just what their uses are

In normal forestry work really only use straight felling cut and dog tooth, very rare to use a split level as tree usually to large so can fit a wedge/s in

 

Last time i done a ticket i was just getting assesed for windblow and was horrified by the standard of boys on the med tree course i piggy backed on for a day, cutting throu hinges and had no idea where bar was in tree.

 

When i done my early tickets had/advised to wait 2 yrs before doing med trees after doing small unless u were experienced. These boys had never picked a saw up before done small/coss cut 1 week and straight onto med/wind blow the next. Most had no feeling for saws or wieght in trees, and they had a top notch instructor just far too much to take in in 1/2 weeks.

 

Flat tyre have a look for clips of trees actually barbers chairing u'lll get the idea why u want to leave the back attached.

Trees under pressure will do it too, like a small stemed tree with others leaning on it, just gort to have ur wits about u

[R Mac]

Anyone know any good up to date books on basic tree work?

 

Apart from the Lantra Workbooks there's the 2 Husqvarna books.

 

Part 1 See Here

 

Part 2 See Here

 

The names of the various felling cuts may be different in the Husky books compared to the Lantra books.

 

There are also the Jeff Jepson books but I think the Husky books are more EU relevant.

[Mick Dempsey]

[ame]

[/ame]

This isn't the one I've been looking for but it'll do.

[stihlmadasever]

Reason is i'm an amateur not a professional. I have recently started up my own landscaping business as that is what I've done for almost twenty years. Started cutting hedges for customers and before I knew it people were asking me to trim and top conifer hedges, next thing i'm being asked to fell trees. Now I know the limits of my current skills so stick to small work, for bigger jobs I sub in fully qualified tree surgeons, some are on the forum. It does eat into the profits but some day when I have a few spare ££££ I will get the relevant certificates. In the meanwhile I try to learn as much through working with pros as possible. But given the confusion amongst fellow members who are trained and certified, you'll have to forgive an amateur like me. Anyone know any good up to date books on basic tree work?

 

Jeff jepson to fell a tree

[SteveA]

It's also worth considering using the Dogs Tooth cut on a straight tree (non leaning) whilst felling in strong wind... I found that out on an ash tree; my first Barbers chair.

It happened very fast & scared the hell out of me.

Cheers, steve

[Spruce Pirate]

It's also worth considering using the Dogs Tooth cut on a straight tree (non leaning) whilst felling in strong wind... I found that out on an ash tree; my first Barbers chair.

It happened very fast & scared the hell out of me.

Cheers, steve

 

If it's proper windy you can rip the holding wood/buttress right out of the ground doing this! Proper good fun.

 

Dogs tooth can be done upto two and a half guide bar and is for forward leaning trees only. The back tab is simply at 45 degrees.

 

Double v cut is only for hand tools as it does not require a bore therefore bowsaw etc can be used.

 

You can use a dog tooth on back leaners or weighted trees too, lets you set a wedge or jack well in and get the hinge set before you sever the wood, similar to a pie cut.

 

Double V can be done with power saw every bit as well as with hand tools.

 

In reality if the tree is small diameter we try not to use compound cuts such as dogs tooth as it takes time. However we probably should. Sharp chain and speed allow safe felling so long so as you don't chase the cut.

 

This is my reality too. Unless something is seriously leaning there are very few situations where a sharp chain and a fast saw won't do the job. It is worth mentioning that I cut mostly spruce, which behaves quite well. You can probably count on the fingers of one hand the number of sweet chestnuts that I've cut - if I cut more then I might have a different perspective. Important to know how the tree you're cutting behaves as well as knowing all the cuts in the book.