First chainsaw

[Woodcrafter]

Joe - if not supermarket petrol what alternative? And why?

Woodcrafter - I'd happily do a course if the cost was less, I accept that the cost is less than losing a leg etc but at the moment it's not financially viable. Pity there aren't a few shorter/cheaper/individual courses on just maintenance / crosscutting / felling etc that would cater for the homeowner wanting training rather than those using a saw in a workplace environment.

 

Thanks for everyones comments anyway.

 

 

Yeah I fully appreciate its not financially viable to the homeowner.

Honey Brothers did at one stage do a Saturday morning course I think. I don't know as they do it anymore and it's probably too far even if they did.

I think that you've got the right idea in possibly a doing a couple of days with a team or perhaps someone who does logs might be happy to show you a few straight forward cuts and to be fair yeah you prob can get everything you need to know from you tube. Afag leaflets on small tree felling and chainsaws have some good points on them.

Main thing to watch out for is kickback. It's over confidence that's when it bites you.

Have fun with your new toy and safe cutting.

[Stubby]

The ethanol in supermarket fuel degrades rubber fuel lines and seals slightly quicker, however if you're only using the saw infrequently it'll take years to have any negative effects and even then it will only be the cost of a new fuel line or carb kit you might need. If you're not going to use the saw for more than a month or two you should drain the tank and run it dry as pump petrol doesn't last much longer than that without additives.

 

Ethanol makes the engine run hotter . Too hot in some cases . In the US there is a huge failure rate in small engines due to their higher percentage over there . It also has a hygroscopic tendency making your fuel degraded with water . Look it up . Best use an alkalite fuel such as Aspen .

Edited September 11, 2015 by Stubby

[Joe Newton]

The ethanol in supermarket fuel degrades rubber fuel lines and seals slightly quicker, however if you're only using the saw infrequently it'll take years to have any negative effects and even then it will only be the cost of a new fuel line or carb kit you might need. If you're not going to use the saw for more than a month or two you should drain the tank and run it dry as pump petrol doesn't last much longer than that without additives.

 

 

Don't run the saw dry! If you haven't used the saw for a while just empty the tank and put in fresh fuel before you use it!

 

The pipes will degrade much quicker if they have been softened by ethanol and then left to go dry. This is how they split. It's better to leave fuel in the tank and pipes then just refresh it when you need to use it again.

 

Or do as a Stubby says, and use Aspen.

[Darkslider]

Whoops, disregard my advice then, that info I've regurgitated came out of the user manual for my saw so I'd assumed it was correct. Should've mentioned aspen is the best solution in all cases, and if you're using the saw that little the cost isn't such a big deal.

[Joe Newton]

Whoops, disregard my advice then, that info I've regurgitated came out of the user manual for my saw so I'd assumed it was correct. Should've mentioned aspen is the best solution in all cases, and if you're using the saw that little the cost isn't such a big deal.

 

 

My word certainly isn't gospel, but my understanding regarding ethanol degradation to the rubber pipes is that the ethanol softens the rubber, which isn't such a problem when the pipes are wet, but once dried out and exposed to the sir they can harden and crack.

 

A bit like methylated spirits on skin.

[Joe Newton]

Anyway, the poor bloke only wanted us to recommend a saw for him! Look where we've led him!

 

I'll shut up now. Put the chain on the right way round and all is well

[Two Acres]

Hi, many thanks for all the replies.

 

As with any forum I use everyone has their own thoughts and preferences and you have to take them all on their own merit.

 

As stated in my OP my local 'farm machinery' type outlets were both Stihl dealers (couldn't locate the Husky one) so I was leaning towards that brand. I buy loads of stuff off the 'net but some things I like to get local should any problems occur so my brands were limited.

 

As such I picked up a saw today - a Stihl MS211. A bit more £ than I planned to spend initially but sometimes it's better to stretch the budget and get something that'll cope with any potential future needs or be abetter product from the start...

 

Got the necessary PPE before the saw to save any temptation of cutting my leg off! :-)

 

As for Cs30/31? - looking at what it covers much of it appears to be common sense and I could work out for myself; the instruction in the assessing and felling of trees bit would be useful though, I agree. It's unlikely that I'll spend an extra £500+ on this course. A day spent assisting a local would be far more beneficial if anyone wants some free labour?!?

 

Many thanks again for your contributions

 

Neil

 

Hello Neil,

 

I bought a Husky 135 a few months ago and got myself on a Lantra course. I'm working in my own woodland so Cs30/31 is not necessary. It cost me £215 and was well worth every penny. It was actually the first two days of the five day 30/31. I learnt much, much more than I imagined and really enjoyed it. You can learn a lot online as Eddy has said, but in my view learning by doing is way better. You meet some good people too. The only regret I have is that I bought the saw online, so now its a little tricky if I want to take it into my local dealer. I reckon a few extra quid to the dealer would've veen a better idea in the long run. I hope it goes well for you

[Eddy_t]

Yes everything is Arb related there's a homeowner thread.

Going off on one when I'm simply advising the bloke to get a bit of training so he doesn't cut himself and learns how to look after his investment properly.

lol

It's advice he didn't have to follow it through he's obviously looked into it he thinks it's not necessary that's his opinion I'm glad he looked into it he's decided most of its common sense. I'm not going to argue that out like I think he's doing something wrong that's up to him.

 

 

It wasn't aimed at you per say, more the predictability of advice on arbtalk. Look up any 'what saw for a beginner, homeowner, land owner, etc.' and after a few posts it's always chainsaw course, small pro saw, then a slightly bigger one, until it reaches 661 or 395.

 

A prime example of this was a member called female arb, or something to that effect. Her partner is an arborist and she wanted to buy him an axe for Christmas or his birthday. Anyway, she put up a posed picture of her in a pair of chainsaw trousers and a nice, tight top, whilst holding a 660 aloft in a little tree. Half of us appreciated how pretty she was, made a few innuendos, the other half found those jokes offensive, started bleating on about not wearing a helmet and then 'you should do your cs30/31 course', she was only after an axe!

 

Remember, millions of people worldwide use chainsaws without tickets, most never hurt themselves. If the OP reads his manual that came with his 211, it covers maintenance (other than sharpening), basic felling and crosscutting, and the kickback zone of the bar. Stihl do another little hand-out book on sharpening.

If there was a course on chain selection and sharpening, that would be worth doing, as 50% of professionals struggle with that!

(Note, if anyone now comes up with such a course, I want 5% in royalties, it was my idea first )

In regards to the comment about I should be a sales assistant/advisor, I have used and worked upon most readily available saws by the 2 main brands (exceptions being the ms661 and 3120xp) so yes, I would be suited to that job, and have been offered such jobs.

[TurtleWoods72]

It wasn't aimed at you per say, more the predictability of advice on arbtalk. Look up any 'what saw for a beginner, homeowner, land owner, etc.' and after a few posts it's always chainsaw course, small pro saw, then a slightly bigger one, until it reaches 661 or 395.

 

A prime example of this was a member called female arb, or something to that effect. Her partner is an arborist and she wanted to buy him an axe for Christmas or his birthday. Anyway, she put up a posed picture of her in a pair of chainsaw trousers and a nice, tight top, whilst holding a 660 aloft in a little tree. Half of us appreciated how pretty she was, made a few innuendos, the other half found those jokes offensive, started bleating on about not wearing a helmet and then 'you should do your cs30/31 course', she was only after an axe!

 

Remember, millions of people worldwide use chainsaws without tickets, most never hurt themselves. If the OP reads his manual that came with his 211, it covers maintenance (other than sharpening), basic felling and crosscutting, and the kickback zone of the bar. Stihl do another little hand-out book on sharpening.

If there was a course on chain selection and sharpening, that would be worth doing, as 50% of professionals struggle with that!

(Note, if anyone now comes up with such a course, I want 5% in royalties, it was my idea first )

In regards to the comment about I should be a sales assistant/advisor, I have used and worked upon most readily available saws by the 2 main brands (exceptions being the ms661 and 3120xp) so yes, I would be suited to that job, and have been offered such jobs.

 

I enjoyed reading that. Well said!

 

What axe did she buy in the end?

[Eddy_t]

I enjoyed reading that. Well said!

 

 

 

What axe did she buy in the end?

 

 

A gransfors bruks axe, although I don't know which one