New member new saw

[spudulike]

Keep off the ported page, it is addictive:blushing:

 

Most saws fail due to fuel issues, if the saw idles, the saw is getting enough fuel for it to do that.

 

If the saw revs out when not cutting and then bogs in the cut then it sounds a bit like either lack of fuel or low compression.

 

The 026 generally has a lot of compression, 170psi is very possible and must be over 150psi.

 

Taking off the muffler and looking at the piston for scoring is well worth it - takes 5 minutes and gives you a good indication as to if the saw has seized or not.

 

If the piston/compression looks OK then the issue is probably fuel related. Typical issues will be a holed impulse line, holed fuel line or a blocked carb internal gauze filter.

 

It is also worth making sure that the H screw is 1 turn out from fully in as if it is running lean, this can stop peak power.

 

The 026 is a better saw than the MS181 or Husky 135 etc, these are lightweight home owner saws although some pros use them for lighter cutting and hedge work!

 

If you need a new piston, it is possible that the saw has an airleak and the cost of a decent aftermarket Meteor piston will be circa £25-30

 

It is also worth checking the wiring where it goes over the top AV mount between the cylinder and rear airbox plate - the wires can chafe and cause a short circuit and therefore a bad spark!

[pinhead]

Right

Had a play car settings were h 3/4 turn out l 1 turn out

So I set it to factory 1 and 1 after cleaning the carb a bit

It wouldn't idle so I turned l out about a quarter and still not happy but didn't bog when gassed so adjusted la a turn and it idles nice just comfortably bellow the clutch engagement point

So hold trigger maybe 4 stroke but couldn't tell properly so out a bit and in a bit to get a good listen to the changes and out again till I was happy

Went to make a cut in a big off cut of an oak beam I had in the back very dry and old cleaned up in the cut and I could push on the saw no bother wouldn't stall the chain

It didn't cut fast but big chips and old dry oak think it's ok

Another slice just for the sake of trying and I hit a screw I hadn't noticed bugger chain feels pretty blunt now so I think it's sorted but need to give the chain a seeing to and try in the normal wet logs at work

[pinhead]

Guess you were typing same time as me spud

I took exhaust off and looked and there were no signs of scoring but the piston is polished different shades in lines that on first glance could be scoring I guess it where it passes the ports but is def not scored I put a cotton bud with the cotton removed in and slid it across the parts I couldn't touch with my little finger and it didn't jump or stop anywhere

Then I took carb off and cleaned it and inspected it and the rest is in the thread above

 

Need to get my file out and do a job on this chain now

[spudulike]

Right

Had a play car settings were h 3/4 turn out l 1 turn out

So I set it to factory 1 and 1 after cleaning the carb a bit

It wouldn't idle so I turned l out about a quarter and still not happy but didn't bog when gassed so adjusted la a turn and it idles nice just comfortably bellow the clutch engagement point

So hold trigger maybe 4 stroke but couldn't tell properly so out a bit and in a bit to get a good listen to the changes and out again till I was happy

Went to make a cut in a big off cut of an oak beam I had in the back very dry and old cleaned up in the cut and I could push on the saw no bother wouldn't stall the chain

It didn't cut fast but big chips and old dry oak think it's ok

Another slice just for the sake of trying and I hit a screw I hadn't noticed bugger chain feels pretty blunt now so I think it's sorted but need to give the chain a seeing to and try in the normal wet logs at work

 

Sounds encouraging, 026s are always a bit fussy on the carb, the older ones more so. If you need to hear fourstroking, put the H screw on 1.5 turns out and listen - it will thump and smoke a bit.

 

The L screw on the older carbs does affect the H screw so 3/4 on the L screw may well lean down the H a bit but 3/4 doesn't sound to bad - if you do turn the L screw out, you will need to typically increase the idle speed and one check to ensure it isn't all over the place is to fire it up on the choke off fast idle setting and if it doesn't have a fast idle, you have probably gone out too far!

 

The saw should be close to 1 turn on each, if it is out by a lot, it is showing up a fault!

[pinhead]

Cut a load of fire wood today it's a lot better not quite as powerful as I expected

I borrowed my mates compression tester but was unable to get a reading due to the 1 way valve been faulty I will try and source another 1

I think I need to work on my chain sharpening technique it's sharp but not as good as I would like

The setting I have settled with are not far from factory settings but what I have noticed is a slight drop in power slightly before it runs out of fuel previously with other stihl equipment I have used I have never noticed this they just go on till they die when the tank is empty

[pinhead]

Bringing this thread back from the past rather than starting a new thread 

So I eventually killed the saw 

Never managed to get the performance out of it that I think it should have had although I cut a lot of firewood with it 

I put it away and forgot about it for a while but it's time to make it great now 

 

So I have ordered a piston and cylinder and intend to put a carb kit in that I already have and new rubber hoses filters etc 

My gut feeling is that the saw went lean either my tune up trying to get a worn saw to run better than it could or a fault 

What's the likelihood of any thing else being needed what do I need to check 

 

And what can I do when I rebuild this to make sure I get top performance from it 

 

[billpierce]

How did you kill the saw? What happened? Is it oem piston and cylinder?

[EricBradley]

Flywheel side crank seal is a killer of this series of saws, so make sure you check the seals

[Stubby]

Dont just put a new pot and piston on without fixing what made it run lean to start with or you will be back to square one again . Seems there is an air leak possibly .

[MattyF]

A, send it to spud
B, learn to sharpen properly, any saws performance is only as good as the chain is sharp, you could have a ported 880 on a 15 “ bar but if it’s blunt it’s useless... also the quickest way to burn out a saw is force it through every cut and also probably the best way to have a saw accident by having to push the saw instead of it dropping through Wöod like butter.