Why wont my saw noodle??!!

[djg010786]

Hello all, I tried to cut a log that was stood on end today, and my saw wasnt happy. It was a 20 inch oak "v" shaped log, and I wanted to split it down the middle, so i stood it on end and tried to come down through it. My saw hated it, and kept putting out dust instead of biting. The bar kept bouncing on the surface of the cut and wouldnt bite in. Is this normal??

 

This saw was a stihl ms 390 with a 20 inch stihl bar and yellow full comp chain.

[Mull]

Rakers too high?

[farmer rod]

Dont you need to lay the log down to noodle? If you want really long noodles have the nose lower

[djg010786]

Rakers too high?

 

Brand new bar and chain. Chain was an RS chain. Cant tell you more than that.

[Mortimer Firewood]

Woods more dense round a union put log on it's side and cut down through one end then the other.

 

Your saw will need a dam good sharpen now:001_smile:

[Eddy_t]

It won't noodle if you cut across the diameter, it produces dust like milling. To noodle a saw, you have to cut along the timber grain.

 

But jumping means it's either blunt, depth gauges are too high, or the chain and bar are worn.

[Stubby]

You need to rip cut it to get strings/noodles . Sharpen chain , lower rakers/depth gauges as has been said .

[spudulike]

To noodle, you cut along the grain with the log laying on its side. You will never get noodles cutting down a log like you have with it standing on its end.

 

As Eddie said, it is like milling!

[MattyF]

It won't noodle in knots.

[morten]

It won't noodle if you cut across the diameter, it produces dust like milling. To noodle a saw, you have to cut along the timber grain.

 

But jumping means it's either blunt, depth gauges are too high, or the chain and bar are worn.

 

... or the chain is on backwards

Edited December 17, 2014 by morten