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Taking depth gauges down past spec.


njc110381
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If you stay with the "specs" trough the "life" of the chain, the rakers will soon be too high, after you have sharpened the chain a few times. As the distanse between the cutting edge and the raker increases, the raker need to be taken progressively more down, to uphold the "angle of attack".

 

Because of that, I use and recommend progressive raker guides, like the Husky plates and the Carlton FOP. Use the "soft" setting on the Husky plates, if you want the rakers a little lower - then you start at .030", instead of the often recommended .025" (with regular .325 and 3/8" chain).

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I've learnt a huge amount from this thread, always struggled getting a good cut after the chain was half worn, always thought it was my sharpening but I'll try playing with the depth gauges and see what happens. I never realised you took the rakers down progressively and have always just filed them to standard specs

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Been freehand sharpening for a few years and was getting on fine. Never really thought twice about it and kept my saws pretty sharp. Used to take a few files over the rakers every couple of sharpens. A few months ago I started using the husqy roller guide and am impressed with the consistency of sharpening and the feel of the saw in the cut is great. The raker guide is to do with the angle mentioned by BobL in that link and seems to make the whole chain usable right upto the line. Freehand I always struggled to get the same consistency from the latter half of the chain.

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Stihl do file/flat file combo tool every time you give it a stroke it takes a bit off the cutter and depth gauge I've never used one but It might be a handy thing if the op is struggling to get the depth gauges right. I know it's not a solution to doing it free hand but it might get the most out of your chain until you master the art of sharpening

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Stihl do file/flat file combo tool every time you give it a stroke it takes a bit off the cutter and depth gauge I've never used one but It might be a handy thing if the op is struggling to get the depth gauges right. I know it's not a solution to doing it free hand but it might get the most out of your chain until you master the art of sharpening

 

Hurrah

 

Someone got it right:laugh1:

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Stihl do file/flat file combo tool every time you give it a stroke it takes a bit off the cutter and depth gauge I've never used one but It might be a handy thing if the op is struggling to get the depth gauges right. I know it's not a solution to doing it free hand but it might get the most out of your chain until you master the art of sharpening

 

 

But will you master the art of sharpening if you're using the combo?

I use a husky roller guide or freehand, it took a while but now have the confidence to sort a chain quickly even after grinding on stone/mud/metal. 😄

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I've learnt a huge amount from this thread, always struggled getting a good cut after the chain was half worn, always thought it was my sharpening but I'll try playing with the depth gauges and see what happens. I never realised you took the rakers down progressively and have always just filed them to standard specs

 

Wow! Tweaked the rakers on a 2/3 worn stihl RSC today and went out this morning to ring up a big ash with the 660. Now previously this chain would cut OK but I could never get a part worn chain to cut really well.

I used the gauge on the husqvarna roller guide that has sat unused in my toolbox for 2 years and I can't believe the difference.

Thanks to all for their input on this thread

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