Crap vs good wood in stove?

[billpierce]

I am trying that at the moment cutting it much smaller seems to help too. I have a load of bits 150 x 50 x 10 that burn well. I have logs that have been in the poly tunnel 5 years that were dead standing and they still sit there and sulk.

 

be interesting to know what moisture content they are? can usually burn oak fine after a year and a half, sometimes 2 .....don;t spose you have a meter?

 

i take it all other wood in your poly tunnel seasons good?

[Ashes_Firewood]

Best way I've found to season oak is split it in to IBC's, put them outside in an open space uncovered. Leave there all spring and summer getting repeatedly rained on and drying out then when there's a dry spell in September bring them inside. Getting wet then drying out seems to really help season it

[Stubby]

Best way I've found to season oak is split it in to IBC's, put them outside in an open space uncovered. Leave there all spring and summer getting repeatedly rained on and drying out then when there's a dry spell in September bring them inside. Getting wet then drying out seems to really help season it

 

I agree with this way of doing it .

[gensetsteve]

be interesting to know what moisture content they are? can usually burn oak fine after a year and a half, sometimes 2 .....don;t spose you have a meter?

 

i take it all other wood in your poly tunnel seasons good?

 

I will have to split some measure it and try it in the stove that night. You would think 3 years in a poly tunnel that hits 45 deg would dry it out. If I split beech in there its below 20 % in 3 months and burns a treat low draw max heat and lasts well.

[billpierce]

I will have to split some measure it and try it in the stove that night. You would think 3 years in a poly tunnel that hits 45 deg would dry it out. If I split beech in there its below 20 % in 3 months and burns a treat low draw max heat and lasts well.

 

agree you woud have thought that would do it! especially if beech is doing fine. i do mine outside stacked with a sheet of tin on top in a windy spot

[Mark Bolam]

I think wind is pretty crucial.

My yard is very enclosed, and I appreciate that when the weather turns grim.

I do struggle to get the mc down though, especially on oak.

I'm finding achieving sub 20% impossible in the winter, even with 3 year old stuff.

More lean-to bays going up this week which will help a bit I hope.

 

I tell my customers now they need a log store and a decent sized log basket.

Having a heap outside and taking them in to put straight on the fire won't be pretty.

 

 

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[spandit]

Putting warm logs on the fire certainly helps so keep a full log basket.

 

I burn a lot of leylandii, willow and punky birch - much of it home grown and the longer it keeps the oil tanker away the better!

[Woodworks]

Best way I've found to season oak is split it in to IBC's, put them outside in an open space uncovered. Leave there all spring and summer getting repeatedly rained on and drying out then when there's a dry spell in September bring them inside. Getting wet then drying out seems to really help season it

 

Read this many times on here and wondering why it works. My guess is that repeated wetting and drying cracks the logs so opens up passageways for the water to exit but no idea realy. Giving it a go this coming season as there is clearly something in it.

[gensetsteve]

Logs seem to season quicker once they have frozen. Not sure if the cells have expanded and burst. Also found in the past you can almost dry beech too much a little rain water and dirt pollution etc you get a better flame.

[Ashes_Firewood]

Read this many times on here and wondering why it works. My guess is that repeated wetting and drying cracks the logs so opens up passageways for the water to exit but no idea realy. Giving it a go this coming season as there is clearly something in it.

 

I only do it with Oak, everything else has a cover over the top to keep the worst off.