someone told me a much quicker way to rig but is it safe?

[Gray git]

If you are taking on jobs that require regular big rigging and you still can't afford a decent lowering rope you ain't charging anough to do the work!

I use slings for the majority of my rigging as it's so fast both in the tree and for groundsman as if 1 gets nipped on the ground they can still get the ropes back to the climber to set the next bit while they free it.

Recently started using the backbone from sherrils which has made things even simpler and can take massive loades and creates a nicer bend radius on the splice eye on my lines.

The only time I tie knots are half hitches below a crab when blocking down, the bigger the timber the more half hitches.

[Mr Oz]

slings are your answer mate like Tom D says their much easier ,quicker and safer option to knots.

[TIMON]

We use slings as well. Quick and user friendly.. We're going on our CS41 in January to learn how to rig correctly and take on bigger jobs.

[colwoodlandcare]

We use slings on branches up to approx 6 or so inches.

Half hitch and steel karabiner up to approx 18" then go with half hitch timber hitch for the big stuff.

 

 

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[treequip]

We use slings as well. Quick and user friendly.. We're going on our CS41 in January to learn how to rig how the NPTC would like to see it done and take on bigger jobs.

 

Fixed that for you:laugh1:

[TIMON]

Fixed that for you:laugh1:

 

 

Thanks !! :)

[Gray git]

Doing cs41 gives you a tick saying you have reached a level of understanding to do basic rigging safely. You don't learn how to rig big stuff.

Yes do the course because that covers you for your insurance but you'll learn more on here and by watching and studying video's from the likes of reg Coates, August hunick Lawrence schultz on youtube.

Watch the isa arborpod series and try and attend a stein rigging workshop.

[Adam Bourne]

The only time I use binas are when I'm using slings in a Zip line/speed line, and multi branch light rigging. Very very rarely any other time.

 

Clove hitch or cow hitch 95% of the time. Even on negative rigging. Vary rarely use a timber hitch.

 

So long as you no the limitations of your gear and you have an insight to how much MBS in rope when adding binas ect then you should be just fine.

 

After all the tree it's self isn't rated is it

[TIMON]

Doing cs41 gives you a tick saying you have reached a level of understanding to do basic rigging safely. You don't learn how to rig big stuff.

Yes do the course because that covers you for your insurance but you'll learn more on here and by watching and studying video's from the likes of reg Coates, August hunick Lawrence schultz on youtube.

Watch the isa arborpod series and try and attend a stein rigging workshop.

 

 

Agreed... It qualifies us to start learning.

We've already tried and tested some of the methods you mentioned. Eg the traverse line on one of Reg Coates's videos. It helped us learn how to remove cuts straight over a flat roof when there was no access from the back garden. Etc..

Also agree that this forum is a great resource for learning.

Thanks

Timon

[DisasterIRL]

I was recently at a stein sponsored rigging course, fairly basic as it was I decided to ask about this topic.

The conversation went onto studies that where done to try measure the forces involved in negative rigging, your 7-13 times your timber weight. The studies found that very little of the actual force was put on the knot, rather it was put on the half hitch and because of that he suggested it was fine as the vast majority of the weight was absorbed by the half hitch

Edited December 11, 2014 by DisasterIRL