Axe handles

[jamesd]

I've got a couple of small hatchet axe heads laying around amd was wandering whether or not to make some handles myslef for them, rather than buy a handle from the shop.

Do any of you do this? If so what is the best way to go about it? what wood should i use etc etc any tips or pictures you could show me?

 

Cheers!

[Graham]

With a short hatchet you can use almost anything you fancy as they don't require the same strength as an axe helve. Just choose something with a longish grain. Elm looks nice, cherry, oak or the traditional ash.

[se7enthdevil]

need to do this myself, if you start the process i'd like some pics to see how you do it.

 

for mine i think i'm just going to copy the handle i have (it's falling off hence the replacement) but not sure what to use.

 

anyone think robinia would do the job???

[agrimog]

I've 3 small axes/hatchets that were made for my father by the blacksmith at the "pit" where he worked as a young man, Ire-hafted one with as and the other 2 are done with keruan, in 25 years of using them I've never even managed to knock a splinter of the keruan ones, maybe not the prettiest of tools, but very efficient

[Graham]

The way I've always done it is this: (not saying it's the correct or best way) I've only ever used ash and keep any pieces that have the right curves in them as you need the grain to follow the shape of your new helve. If you have to cut the desired shape then you'll end up with grain that runs out and be weak.

 

With ash I was always told to use a piece with around eight rings per inch (sports grade) but anything with even growth would do I reckon. Split the piece down through the middle at 90 degrees to the shape you want to retain and then keep dividing it to get your desired piece.

 

Roughly even up the width and mark out the shape of the piece you want. Cut it out and place by the fire to dry for a couple of days.

 

To fit the head place it on the end of your timber and mark the eye shape on the end grain with a pencil. The eye will probably be tapered so make sure you mark the smallest side on the end.

 

Then it's just a matter of whittling down to the eye shape. Keep checking against the head and as the head starts to push on any high spots will show on the wood. Don't go too loose as the timber may have a little more shrinking to do. You could leave it a couple of days at this stage to allow it to shrink.

 

So you've ended up with a nice tight fit. Take the head off and saw your wedge groove about half the depth of the eye. I like a piece of hard bone oak for the wedge but whatever you use make sure it's dry. Knock it all together (I put a little pva in the groove as it's easier to knock the wedge in and it also secures it) and flush off the end. You can now finish the shaft.

[agg221]

Very much agree with Graham. Only things to add - if you want something UK grown then ash is the toughest and has a natural spring which takes the sting out of your hands. One day though the fibres will just snap off after enough punishment, not because they are rotten but just due to there being a limit to how many impacts they can take. It takes a long time though.

 

Hickory has similar properties to ash but lasts longer.

 

Privet is apparently similar to hickory if you ever find a suitable bit.

 

Making it, as per Graham but rather than whittling I do what I was shown by Bruce Wilcock who is a smith who makes tools for a living. He works at a vice and uses a horse rasp, first to round up the eye, then once fitted to shape the haft. The eye won't always be perfectly straight but you can correct for this by the side you rasp down, periodically looking down the handle to check by eye and also checking the swing. This can also correct any slight twist between head and handle. Finishing is with the fine side of the rasp, then wire wool and wax, applied with the handle warm. With hickory you can warm it over the forge which singes off the fibres, making it easy to rub off the charcoal. It also crystallises the sugars, turning the surface a uniform satin black as the wax is rubbed in to the warm surface with the wire wool. The same trick works with cherry and other prunus species; ash just goes a muddy brown.

 

Alec

Edited March 15, 2014 by agg221

[Lignaterrae]

Looks like Robinia would fit the bill nicely. All reports suggest it has exactly the same qualities of toughness as ash plus, for what it's worth in an axe shaft, excellent resistance to decay.

 

 

 

need to do this myself, if you start the process i'd like some pics to see how you do it.

 

for mine i think i'm just going to copy the handle i have (it's falling off hence the replacement) but not sure what to use.

 

anyone think robinia would do the job???

[openspaceman]

T

With ash I was always told to use a piece with around eight rings per inch (sports grade) but anything with even growth would do I reckon. Split the piece down through the middle at 90 degrees to the shape you want to retain and then keep dividing it to get your desired piece.

 

 

That's what I've done, but not often as it is time consuming. I used stuff grown from coppice to get the basal curve. I didn't know the 8 rings per inch, I thought the faster grown the better.

 

Holly was also used for hammer handles as this is also apparently springy.

 

There was a good trade for ash for hammer handles up till a steel strike in about 1984 when production of whole hammers was shifted abroad.

[se7enthdevil]

Looks like Robinia would fit the bill nicely. All reports suggest it has exactly the same qualities of toughness as ash plus, for what it's worth in an axe shaft, excellent resistance to decay.

 

 

the extra decay resistance was what i was thinking too plus it will be a lovely golden yellow. i'm only going to use mine for whittling purposes so i think i'll use that.

[urbandekay]

I shape with a draw knife