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Posted
I'm sure if you tie your chainsaw off to a tree or something you will soon have 2 saws lol

 

The rear attachment point is on the winch, not the saw.

 

I've never used a lewis but had been very close to buying one a couple of times. I stumbled across something similar on ebay one day and ended up buying that instead (a Helper winch made by Rule Indutries and powered by a homelite powerhead).

 

The job I bought it for never happened in the end but we've used it a few times so far, mainly for pulling hangers and it's proved to be a useful thing, and surprisingly powerful.

 

The one thing I noticed with the lewis is that it makes a much more compact unt if it's mounted to a saw with an inboard clutch (like a Husq 372 or similar).

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Posted

I have one which I run off an 066 for use with milling. It is very handy for pulling butts out to where you can get at them, so long as you can get a good anchor point. It doesn't get as much use as I thought it would though as generally if you can drive up to the butt you don't need it, and if it's a long drag then it's one more big heavy piece of kit to lug so it's often easier to just work in the awkward location then have to take the winch in and out.

 

Alec

Posted

Iv'e got one. A good bit of kit. A bit of locktight on the nuts and its fine. It does say to put locktight on in the manual. Like someone else said, get rid of the wire rope, and buy some dynemma rope. Far better in my opinion.

Posted
Why would it affect clutch bearings?

 

Because the way it attaches. If the nuts loosen (which they done for fun when it was new) and you have the basic strop anchor, you end up putting some force on the saw aswell as the winch. The direct fitting onto the clutch drum is strong so the play goes to the weak point - the roller bearing

 

The mini guide bar fitting was ok but pissed oil down you're leg, even with oiler turned down

Posted
Because the way it attaches. If the nuts loosen (which they done for fun when it was new) and you have the basic strop anchor, you end up putting some force on the saw aswell as the winch. The direct fitting onto the clutch drum is strong so the play goes to the weak point - the roller bearing

 

The mini guide bar fitting was ok but pissed oil down you're leg, even with oiler turned down

 

Could you not just empty the oil tank? or would that damage the pump?

Posted

I think the newer model does not need the bar attachment.

Though bout gettin one a while back. Got lots of windblown chestnut to deal wih, the thought of a tirfor makes my arm hurt! But so does tbe cost to the wallett!!!

 

Decisionz!

Posted
Because the way it attaches. If the nuts loosen (which they done for fun when it was new) and you have the basic strop anchor, you end up putting some force on the saw aswell as the winch. The direct fitting onto the clutch drum is strong so the play goes to the weak point - the roller bearing

 

The mini guide bar fitting was ok but pissed oil down you're leg, even with oiler turned down

 

You don't need a mini guide bar with an inboard clutch. That is by far the best set-up

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