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screw type log splitters


cd233u
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Our experience of selling many, many Hycracks a year is that there is no substitute for the real thing and horsepower.

 

Those of you on here with Hycracks will know that their longevity is legendary - the same cannot be said for the copy cones and tips. We've not seen any 'copy' cone that's 10 years old - let alone 30 years. We register the age of every customers machine when they come for spares and many are over 20 years, needing only a tip or bearings. We have several eBay cones brought into us every year that are worn out and the customer wants to convert using a Hycrack cone. Yes it's more expensive - but you buy them once.

 

I would say that although we have sold to customers with 12 and 17hp Kubota or John Deere type compacts - and lots to grey fergie owners we warn them that the lower the hp, the smaller wood you can split.

 

Equally the torque must be there. I recommend that people start off at 300-350 rpm and see how it goes. Increasing to 400-450 on good splitting woods. Try splitting tough and knotty at 540 and you'll have a tiger by the tail.

 

So assuming that price is key over quality and you are going Polish or German - which is fair enough but you'll get what you pay for - make sure you can vary the speed (it's essential in my book) and you can get some low down bangs for your buck torque wise.

 

And p.s. build it properly - your limbs depend on it.

HI UK we had a hydcrack years ago when i 1st got into logs on my mf135 mate we did run a ROPE STOP OFF THE PULL STOP at the time it was a good splitter as you said it was a one mans splitter it was no good if your mate come over to you and started talking i had to run the splitter on my own you soon get no how to use them but now we run a posch splitter thanks jon :thumbup:

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No you don't need your hands in there, and there is an emergency stop.

 

The one I owned needed the operator to lift the log onto the plate and push it on to the cone until the cone bit in. It was pto driven and the only way to stop the cone was to stop the tractor or disengage the PTO, you cant do either from the operators position, particularly if it has your hand trapped and if its under load disengaging the PTO is going to be difficult

 

How do you get the log onto the cone and what's your emergency stop?

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How different is the Hycrack splitter from the Eagle? What's the Eagle like in general to use and run? Thinking of getting one so any feedback welcome.

 

The eagle is simple to run and use mine runs off the tractor. I have had no problems yet. Does a great job for what I need it for. I do some cords and quite a lot of stuff I get from tree surgeons. The cone splitter on the eagle only takes rings up to a certain size though..there must be some other eagle users on here. I think there are some threads on it somewhere. The hycrack is a brilliant machine bought it a couple of weeks ago. Wished I had bought one sooner. I can also split bigger rings.. I think the dimensions are on their web page. If you need to know anything else just ask

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But if the PTO is under load it wont disengage

 

How do you get the log onto the cone without using your hands?

 

Ok, I always like a challenge, so here goes.

 

Now I think you are being silly because you have decided that you can't operate a Hycrack without hurting yourself. My advice is to never go near them, they are only safe in the hands of experienced operators.

 

If you have any experience of using a tractor on a farm, which I have, and the place tractors were designed for, you will know that the PTO lever can easily be disengaged when under load, mechanical, hydraulic or electrical engagement. It's not advisable on a regular basis though. I have never needed to stop the PTO in many, many years of use so I don't bother with the rope. Guess I just live life on the edge.

 

Ok, Hycrack operating instructions:

 

1. Lift block with hands onto splitter table.

2. Use hands to push block onto cone.

3. Hands normally succumb to gravity by falling by your side, or on occasions used to wipe dust from eyes, pick nose, scratch nether regions.

4. When block split, use hands to a) chuck stick into, crate, bag etc or b) if still too large use hands to repeat operations 1 to 4.

 

At no point are hands "in there", your words.

 

Time to hear from more Hycrack users methinks.:001_smile:

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How different is the Hycrack splitter from the Eagle? What's the Eagle like in general to use and run? Thinking of getting one so any feedback welcome.

 

The eagle is simple to run and use mine runs off the tractor. I have had no problems yet. Does a great job for what I need it for. I do some cords and quite a lot of stuff I get from tree surgeons. The cone splitter on the eagle only takes rings up to a certain size though..there must be some other eagle users on here. I think there are some threads on it somewhere. The hycrack is a brilliant machine bought it a couple of weeks ago. Wished I had bought one sooner. I can also split bigger rings.. I think the dimensions are on their web page. If you need to know anything else just ask

 

I must declare a Hycrack interest - but having said that we've heard the Eagle suffers from belt slip?

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