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advice for a noobie chainsaw user


chrismechanic
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hi all, i bought a mcculloch cs 360t for some light sawing duties (i know what some would say about that saw too :001_smile:)

 

1st question is, the clutch, it had oil inside the clutch bell, now do we run them lubed or dry? never come across a clutch without a friction surface so im unsure about metal to metal contact.

 

2nd question, why does it cut a curve? no matter how careful i apply the saw at 90 degrees to the log, it still goes off to the right and starts cutting a nice radius lol, if i under cut it cuts straight as a die, i have checked the bar for flatness and it is at 90 degrees and bar oil is flowing too.

 

3rd question, in the manual it says about chain sharpening and shows a pic of a tooth profile that it states has "too much hook angle" but this looks just like my chain straight from the factory so im a bit confused about that.

while cutting the saw seems to bite and jerk, cuts for 3 seconds then spits out powderd wood all over me and wont cut unless i use alot of pressure.

 

manual here, look at page 17 http://www.mcculloch.com/ddoc/MCCO/MCCO2013_EUenEUfrEUdeEUes/MCCO2013_EUenEUfrEUdeEUes__115527926.pdf

 

i had the saw for 2 weeks, used it 3 times, it has had 3 tanks of fuel through it so far.

thanks guys.

chris

Edited by chrismechanic
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where are you as its easier to teach in person really.

 

but will try.

 

first thing, yes dry clutch, the wear surface is on the clutch shoes, and also the drum is a wear surface.

 

it will cut a curve if one side of the chain cutters are smaller than the other or one side are blunt.

 

a file size will be given by what chain you are using, you need the right size file for the chain, what chain is it so we can advise you on what size file you need.

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where are you as its easier to teach in person really.

 

but will try.

 

first thing, yes dry clutch, the wear surface is on the clutch shoes, and also the drum is a wear surface.

 

it will cut a curve if one side of the chain cutters are smaller than the other or one side are blunt.

 

a file size will be given by what chain you are using, you need the right size file for the chain, what chain is it so we can advise you on what size file you need.

 

Or the depth gauges are off, BUT none of that is right if the saw cuts straight on a pushing cut.

 

Turn the bar over and see if the problem "reverses"

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can always give a few pointers for beer tokens.

 

i did know that treequip but was trying not to get too into it as he is a novice. my next question was going to be if the bar was worn or bent.

 

to a very new user a saw is a scary thing with lots of dribble in the manual.

 

i do have to ask why you have a topper, or does the t at the end not mean that? not really familiar with the mc crappok range of numbers.

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thanks for the speedy reply, if i dissapere it will be for dinner, but i will be back..

im in margate :biggrin: so not far at all.

the chain is oregon an has 16 stamped on the drive teeth :confused1:

chris

 

That will be '91', so that explains the problem, the chain is on upside down:biggrin:

 

Seriously though, It is an Oregon 91 chain,(probably a low kick back one) so you will need a 5/32 file when you come to sharpen it.

 

Your curved cut sounds just like a worn rail on the bar. The bar should not be worn in 3 weeks though unless it is not oiling.

As others said, reversing the bar will prove this.

 

If you do decide to ditch it, don't buy an MS171, spend a few quid more and get a 181, its far superior and has a proper grown up chain.

 

edit, Oh, and welcome to the forum.

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