Building a walnut box

[Woodworks]

Some time back mutley asked if I could share a bit more on how I make some of my work. I am building a small walnut box for a client at the moment so I will do my best to explain how it's made as I go along.

 

The design will have a small cherry inlay around the edge of the top panel. This rules out having a solid top due to expansion and shrinkage issues so I have made up some walnut veneers to laminate to a stable ply core. The veneers are cut on the bandsaw then glued to each other to create a book-matched panel and then glued to the ply.

 

1. shows the nightmare I had with an appalling new blade on the bandsaw. James has kindly pointed me in the direction of some new blades which made it possible for me to get four veneers from one 1" board even after the waste of the first cut.

 

2. Using a cutting gauge for a reference to plane back too. The veneers are stuck down to the bench with double to do the planning.

 

3. Gluing the veneers together.

 

4. Gluing the veneers to the top.

 

5. Finally a panel I can use for the top.

 

I will add to this thread as I go along and this may take some time as I am not in the workshop much these days. If I have left things out that you want to know just ask and I will try to explain.

[muttley9050]

Thanks bud, its looking good. Do you plane the veneer by hand or through the thicknesser? Why so many pieces of veneer?

James

[Woodworks]

Have to plane by hand when less then 4mm-5mm as the thicknesser will tear them apart. I use double sided tape to hold them in place while planning. The reason for four veneers is each face has a bookmatched pair i.e. two consecutive veneers opened out so a reflection of each other. Hope that makes sense.

[Woodworks]

Deadlines are looming so got to get on with this box.

 

Went on holiday last week and left the top panel lying around in the workshop which must have been as hot as hell when I was away as it did not get opened up each day. Come back to find all the veneers have cracked up and I am now making a new one. What a PITA

 

The wood has been cut 15 years but the humidity was high when I glued it and I used PVA glue which is water based and these things have conspired to balls it up.

 

High humidity has always been my bane. I have tried dehumidifiers but in a less than airtight workshop on Dartmoor they don't do much to help.

[Ian Leach]

bugger what a shame

[muttley9050]

Nasty, I feel for you, but on the plus side, it makes me feel better about my mess ups. If its good enough from the pros, its good enough for me:)

Most of my problems stem from the fact that I can't get wood below 15%mc in my workshop/store. Trying to think of cheap simple ways of addressing this at the mo, but not having a lot of luck.

James

[Woodworks]

While I sort out some new veneers for the top I thought I had better get on with the dovetails. I can cut by hand but it is painstaking work so these days I cut them with a router and Woodrat. I like the Woodrat as it allows you to make more delicate pins than most other dovetail jigs so they look more like classic hand cut ones.

 

I can't quickly describe what the Woodrat can do and how it works as it very versatile and there at least two websites devoted to using and adapting them them.

 

First the tails.

[muttley9050]

Looks a nice setup. Are you cutting through or half blind joints?

[Woodworks]

Looks a nice setup. Are you cutting through or half blind joints?

 

Through dovetails for all to see.

 

I always like the Arts and Crafts style with the joints on show.

[Woodworks]

Just been cutting the pins.

 

Even when using a machine I like to mark out the pins as if thou I was cutting by hand. My reasoning is it is very easy to get disorientated when using the Woodrat enabling instant balls up. Marking out and shading the waste helps to avoid these sorts of mistakes as you can see where the cutter is removing material.

 

I mark with a knife as this leaves the finest of lines.

Incidentally my marking knife of choice is and old reground small flat file as used for filing depth stops on chainsaw chain. It's much nicer than my fancy Japanese one.