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Building a walnut box


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Working out how best to do the inlay on the top has been keeping me up at night. In the end I decided to glue a strip all around the top panel and then fit a tongue to attach it to the sides. Fiddly bits of inlay are not my thing so this seemed the least bad option.

 

First 2 pictures are using a shooting board to plane the panel down to be a perfect fit into the dovetailed sides.

 

Picture 3 shows using a thin wing cutter to make a groove in the top. I also ran a groove around the inside of sides on the same height setting. I have since glued a spline into the groove in the panel.

 

4 is the panels with a coat of oil on the inside so that when I glue the whole thing together any glue that leaks out inside will be easy to take off subsequently.

 

By the end of today's work the workshop had a fantastic smell of ceder and VOCs given off by the oil :lol:

 

Now I am all ready for a rather scary glue up tomorrow.

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Just glued the box up. I used PU glue (Balcotan) as it has a longish open time unlike PVA in this hot weather. The down side to the Balcotan is it does not grip so needs clamps while drying. The picture does look like overkill but the clamps are very lightly tightened to avoiding distorting the box. We shall see later how it has turned out.

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Very nice, and an interesting thread.

As a complete dullard when it comes to working with wood I stand in awe at those who can do this stuff (my brother is very good, but too stoned to bother most of the time).

Can I ask, why the differences in spacing and sizes on your dovetails?

Oh, and my missus (who is more practical than most), says "would there be any benefits to you, using EVA rather than PVA. She uses it a lot and swears by it.

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Very nice, and an interesting thread.

As a complete dullard when it comes to working with wood I stand in awe at those who can do this stuff (my brother is very good, but too stoned to bother most of the time).

Can I ask, why the differences in spacing and sizes on your dovetails?

Oh, and my missus (who is more practical than most), says "would there be any benefits to you, using EVA rather than PVA. She uses it a lot and swears by it.

 

I am in awe of what some of you proper tree folk do so we all have different skills :biggrin:

 

The dovetail spacing is just how I was taught but it does avoid them looking machine made as most machines used to be only able to do even spacing.

 

EVA glue please tell me more.

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Apparently, EVA is more stable when subjected to variations in heat, and when cured it off gasses less than PVA, It is also (theoretically) reverseable after curing as it can be released with water. Can't really see how that's a good thing, but she seems to think that PVA will let go anyway when wetted, but with EVA you can just reclamp it and it'll stick again, whereas PVA won't ( I think).

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Thanks Bren :biggrin:

 

To be honest I quite like the fact that PVA is water resistant. I do not know what lies ahead for the pieces I make and factor in some accidental abuse somewhere down the line but thanks for explaining as it was a new one on me.

 

Back to today's job of cleaning up the box. First I do most of the external planing and sanding while it is all one piece then the moment of truth. Parting the top from the base on the bandsaw. I was in luck as it just fitted under the guides with a couple of mm to spare.There is small amount of glue squeeze out on the inside but very little so very pleased with this result.

 

Hopefully will get the hinges and locks done over the weekend.

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Been pattering away in the workshop this morning. Fitted the box lining which is very simple. Just four thin pieces of cherry mitered and slid into place. Cut these on the circular saw. Then polished up some brass hinges with some wet and dry, wire wool and then Brasso.

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