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Working in the upper most crown.


cerneARB
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I've never taken a pole-saw up into the crown, and never will. Tie-in your 0200 into the tree, use the other end of your rope, your strops and pull-out the Silky, You'll instantly become lighter and more manoeuvrable. :001_smile:

 

Very true, if you need a chainsaw then the branches are plenty big enough to take your weight anyway. Keep your main anchor in the 3 -4 inch range but for secondarys I sometimes go down to 1" ( species dependant ).

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As a ground-hugging tree sloth, I have watched in amazement as Steve has climbed up past me to his tie-in point, way up in the canopy above me, and told me thats where my t.i.p. should be. Of course, it makes sense to be as high as poss, gives the climber the best possible angles to work from all over the tree.

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As said by Steve and Tom, getting a nice high anchor point is key. As long as you are in the middle of the crown (assuming the crown is symmetrical) and as far up as you can safely go, there should rarely be a need to climb above your anchor point.

 

Unless you are doing a 2.5% reduction or something ridiculous.

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Every tree is an individual, an as such dictates the tactics required. Species, condition, growth habit and time of year will all play a part in the position of the t.i.p. It is usually necessary to climb above that point or to the extremities of the limbs to carry out small reduction percentages. If its above the anchor point, assuming the point is as high as it can go, then it is an advantage to be light and nimble, one is climbing the tree at this point (which i generally do anyway) secondary points are of no use. The same goes for the extremities, the working at height regs state that the secondary point must be able to support the climbers weight, not just supply an aid to balance. Once again the lightweight climber wins hands down.

Power to weight ratio is essential in the tree, on the ground being built like a brick house is an advantage, up in the fragile world of trees it is of no help.

Rock climbing requires the lead climber to constantly climb above his gear, this is called arun out, I've had run outs of 30 ft before now which has been helpful when faced with 10 ft of work above the t.i.p.

There's very few hard and fast rules with trees, nature doesn't create predictable physics.

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Some amazing pics of Gerry Beranek in his 'Fundamentals of General Tree Work' using multiple small whips to create an anchor.

 

Thing is, how on earth did he get there to strop all these whips together?!

 

Some good advice in this thread, but top tip is go HIGH! Worth remembering though that a skinny limb can withstand a lot of weight straight down it, but far less lateral force i.e. pulling sideways to get to tips the same height.

 

As Jason says, every tree is different. Never tie in too high on poplars. Fell them! Fell them all!

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Thanks for all the posts guys. Good reading, from a wealth off knowledge and experince.

 

 

In a nut shell from what ive read, high tie in piont but safe anchor and rope kept taught...ooh and lose some weight..im 11 stone and skinny.

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Just curious to know what the rest of you do to reach the upper crown in a tree..besides the obivous such as a mewp.From my drawing, say your anchor point is the orange X what techniques do you use to get to the green arrows.The outer branches are lets say 5-6 inches in girth. I know that you cant climb above your anchor point unless you have a secondary anchor piont.Do you use pole saw?, wing it with a secondary rope? Or be a nutter and just get out there. Its easy to branch walk below the arrows i know.If your above your anchor point wheres your weight in your harness?

 

Give me your techniques you use.Cheers.

 

keep the main anchor look for a good re direct keep linr tight and if in dout use a 3-5 meter strop that will stop you going anywhere but let you go anywhere

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Just curious to know what the rest of you do to reach the upper crown in a tree. Cheers.

 

On removals that require rigging, you don't need to go as high as you would for deadwooding or crown reduction. This pic was from a Beech removal, my anchor point for the whole tree was the union below the red X. When rigging you can take the branches above you out in long lengths so no need to climb up so high.

 

 

anchorpoint.jpg

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