modding my a 201t

[Mitch]

Is there a particular place in exhaust you need to drill

 

 

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[Eddy_t]

Is there a particular place in exhaust you need to drill

 

 

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Somewhere it won't melt most of the plastic

 

 

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[wyk]

Seems excessive as when I was playing with an 066, it sounded like the engine would let loose when the ignition was too advanced - different engine but seems too big a change IMO!

 

Snelling tends to often run the ragged edge. He gets as much as he can out of a saw. He is a programmer by trade, and has very little experience running a saw aside from making cookies. Few of his customers work in forestry as well, so his feedback is limited. Take what he says with a grain of salt and approach it carefully.

 

Back to the old "retune your saw after muffler mod" note. ALWAYS check the tune of your equipment after making modifications. Yes, the dealers mostly get it right, but why risk it being tuned a tad lean from the dealer and then suddenly you're very lean after a simple mod? Always check your tune after mods. But, in many cases, if your saw was tuned correctly to start, and you did a decent muffler mod, you can now add MORE fuel, safely, for even more power. Why not take advantage of the mods you made?

[Arbtech Tree Services]

Sorry if i've missed a post, could you please point me in the right direction for a tach as i have (don't we all) plenty of saws to keep an eye on.

 

Reasonable price with reasonable accuracy - i fully appreciate that you get what you pay for.

 

Regards,

 

Steve.

[spudulike]

Snelling tends to often run the ragged edge. He gets as much as he can out of a saw. He is a programmer by trade, and has very little experience running a saw aside from making cookies. Few of his customers work in forestry as well, so his feedback is limited. Take what he says with a grain of salt and approach it carefully.

 

Back to the old "retune your saw after muffler mod" note. ALWAYS check the tune of your equipment after making modifications. Yes, the dealers mostly get it right, but why risk it being tuned a tad lean from the dealer and then suddenly you're very lean after a simple mod? Always check your tune after mods. But, in many cases, if your saw was tuned correctly to start, and you did a decent muffler mod, you can now add MORE fuel, safely, for even more power. Why not take advantage of the mods you made?

 

From memory, one guy asked Brad what half a key width would give on advance and he quoted 10 degrees which one guy on here then took as a reasonable amount to advance the timing on his saw.

 

The point I was making was that IMO, ten degrees may well cause some serious running issues - I think Brads reply may have been a bit "matter of fact" rather than giving a valid opinion on what degree advance would make a positive gain with this saw.

 

Not wishing to cause issue with what you have said but that was where I was coming from in my post and not picking fault with Brads work:thumbup:

[wyk]

From memory, one guy asked Brad what half a key width would give on advance and he quoted 10 degrees which one guy on here then took as a reasonable amount to advance the timing on his saw.

 

The point I was making was that IMO, ten degrees may well cause some serious running issues - I think Brads reply may have been a bit "matter of fact" rather than giving a valid opinion on what degree advance would make a positive gain with this saw.

 

Not wishing to cause issue with what you have said but that was where I was coming from in my post and not picking fault with Brads work:thumbup:

 

Oh, I was simply quoting you for reference. You're on the ball, and certainly appear more experienced with saws than myself, so I definitely wasn't meaning any sort of criticism towards yourself.

 

I do agree - 10* is a big number. But, for Brad, that could well be fine. As I was saying, he could be matter of fact, or he could be pushing it - be careful with his #'s. I see a lot of guys on the US board pushing saws to their limits for standard ground or tree work. Many professionals in the states are perfectly happy with a saw that lasts a year, maybe two, in heavy logging. Are you happy with your ported 372XP lasting a year? I'm not. I go a bit more conservative most of the time - especially with timing advance. My 'stock appearing race saw' only has 4* advance at 235psi. But, some saws like a lot, some hate it.

[Gerbutt]

Has anyone noticed their 200t smoking after modding the exhaust? Mine does a little when used a lot and a friend has just said his does too. When I took my chain cover off I looked like it was coming from oil on the cylinder. Do you think it may be the chain oil flicking off with the extra speed and making its way up there?

[Marc]

Has anyone noticed their 200t smoking after modding the exhaust? Mine does a little when used a lot and a friend has just said his does too. When I took my chain cover off I looked like it was coming from oil on the cylinder. Do you think it may be the chain oil flicking off with the extra speed and making its way up there?

 

Mine does that particularly when worked hard, it's also stock and not modded.

[ward.S]

Smoke coming from the recoil hosing is caused but crisp burning to the cooling fins and over heating the engine! Take it apart and clean

 

 

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[Gerbutt]

Cheers. I ground down that limiter thing a little and richened it up a smidge, seems to have stopped smoking now 👍