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Chippers -- what modifications


Dean Lofthouse
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Heavier fly wheels can never hurt. PTO driven chippers could have a hand operated jack stand system that could be retracted right up under the unit when not in use.. then, when ready, just operate the jack and raise the chipper into place, and align your machine, and attach. This will be useful wherever the chipper is placed. This is specifically for people who don't have adequate 3 point lift hitches, etc. -but perhaps a good option for consideration.

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I thought it would be nice to have a thread that, instead of slagging off certain chippers for what they can and can't do, would list the modifications that could be done to improve the chipper you have.

 

I'm sure there will be chipper retailers, manufacturers that may look in and find some of the feedback usefull.

 

In other words, name the chipper you have and list the modifications you would like to see to make it a better chipper in your veiw.

 

For example, mines a Bandit 65XL, it's a very good chipper, but what would make it better is if the feed rollers had an auto backoff when the stress control kicked in so the the timber wasn't held against the flywheel while the engine revs built back up. Maybe also a turbo fitted

 

Also, stronger springs on the top feed roller and a faster acting stress control similar to the timberwolfs.

 

I would also like to see an extended spout

 

Hey Dean

 

Call us as we can fit all those bits you would like to see on your Bandit even the auto reverse feed (standard on the Carlton:001_tongue:)

 

Our workshops can price for the mods for you.

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Hey Dean

 

Call us as we can fit all those bits you would like to see on your Bandit even the auto reverse feed (standard on the Carlton:001_tongue:)

 

Our workshops can price for the mods for you.

 

It's not whether or not they can be fitted that's the issue, it's at what cost :scared1:

 

They should come as Standard ( are you listening Mr Bandit? )

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The star head bolts on my TW take ages to de-gunk with a dentists pick before a blade change. This is by far the longest part of the operation.

 

Any ideas?

 

Also the ability to detect any hardwood greater than 4" diameter and spit it out a side chute cut to 10" lengths, split, seasoned and bagged up would be nice.

 

Over to you Ed!

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The star head bolts on my TW take ages to de-gunk with a dentists pick before a blade change. This is by far the longest part of the operation.

 

Any ideas?

 

Dunno if it will make any difference but trying spraying some teflon (GT 85 I think)based lubricant into the bolt heads after youve cleaned them, might help to prevent some crap sticking in there.

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