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Strimmer cable, which one?


Justme
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Yep

Centripedal clutch requires revs to engage.

That said out FS250 and FS200 brush cutters do not seem to mind the relatively incessant "blipping" of the throttle.

BUT only ever trimming grass.

PS

Hoooray Doobin

I have finally met someone else who appreciates that bigger or thicker is not better.

Fine strimmer cord 2.4 or 2.7 is SO much easier to drive.

It only took me 20 years to convince some of my staff.

PPS

Hooray again re the blade for the heavy stuff.

cheers

marcus

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Bigger diam cord (and of course trimmer heads with more than 2 cords exposed) hugely increases engine load and thus temps with obvious risk of potential seizure if everything else is less than perfect.

 

Engine revs should aim around 9-10 thousand rpm. Much less results in clutch wear and higher vibration exposure.

Too high rpm results in higher temps (running thicker cord as well...getting into seizure territory!) high fuel consumption and increased gearbox temps leading to gear wear and possible bearing failure and wear to the drive tube assy.

 

As engine load changes through different grass conditions (and cord length due to wear), the amount of throttle applied should change accordingly to maintain the sweet spot.

 

3.0 is plenty big enuf diamter...if thats not thick enuf for the job then use a blade!

 

Dont underestimate how much load cord places on an engine.

 

 

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

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I found the Oregon yellow and red to get eaten pretty quickly and for the price I was not impressed, I was leant some B&Q yellow stuff, not sure of the size and its been great, last longer than the Oregon. I use a husky 325 strimmer.

 

 

Sent from Outerspace.

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When I was doing the brush cutter course it was a requirement to run the engine at full revs and not to run it up and down all the time. Something about the clutches being designed to run that way.

 

Another example of why qualifications mean jack. Especially for something as simple as a strimmer...:lol:

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To modify yer Yankee timber cutter's words

"Training dont fix stupid"

PS

Believe it or not I had difficulty communicating to seasonal agency staff that planting ones left foot on the strimmer shaft to steady it, whilst starting................................. WAS NOT A GOOD IDEA.

Being limited in the language I could use.

Nothing rude or intermperate you understand.

Quietly and calmly.

As apparently this works.(in the training manuals)

But, bytimes I have had good reason to doubt it does.

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To modify yer Yankee timber cutter's words

"Training dont fix stupid"

PS

Believe it or not I had difficulty communicating to seasonal agency staff that planting ones left foot on the strimmer shaft to steady it, whilst starting................................. WAS NOT A GOOD IDEA.

Being limited in the language I could use.

Nothing rude or intermperate you understand.

Quietly and calmly.

As apparently this works.(in the training manuals)

But, bytimes I have had good reason to doubt it does.

Aye right I bet the air wis blue lol

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Operating a brushcutter at less than full throttle does impose greater loads on the engine and transmission, and increased wear will certainly result.

 

Cord at the correct length acts as a governor, as it wears and shortens, the revs increase. This is a bad thing.

 

Removing the guard and blade in order to run longer cord is also a bad thing as the engine and transmission are severely loaded.

 

But if it is your chosen practice and gets the job done then fair enough if you are prepared to accept the higher repair costs.

 

And, if you want your chosen cord (whichever size you prefer) to last as long as possible then store it in water. The co-polymer nylon soaks up to 12% moisture which stops it becoming brittle. This greatly increases its resistance to wear.

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Operating a brushcutter at less than full throttle does impose greater loads on the engine and transmission, and increased wear will certainly result.

 

Cord at the correct length acts as a governor, as it wears and shortens, the revs increase. This is a bad thing.

 

Removing the guard and blade in order to run longer cord is also a bad thing as the engine and transmission are severely loaded.

 

But if it is your chosen practice and gets the job done then fair enough if you are prepared to accept the higher repair costs.

 

And, if you want your chosen cord (whichever size you prefer) to last as long as possible then store it in water. The co-polymer nylon soaks up to 12% moisture which stops it becoming brittle. This greatly increases its resistance to wear.

 

Well, you learn something every day. Cheers for the info. :thumbup1:

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well after all the threads re using smaller line for strimmers i got oregen starline 2,5 have tried it on grass and have to say not impressed at all with my normal 3.5 line i can go half a day cutting long grass and engine does not loose power just cuts it down the new line filled it 4 times today just keeps breaking not a happy bunny will not buy any more on line can any one say where i can get 6mm cord need it for my echo bearcat walk behind now thats a beast cuts it down did a 2 mile footpath both sides grass 6ft tall in 4 hours. do not say why not use a flail mower next on list when i can afford one. but need some more line and not many stock this large size. thank you

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