Jump to content

Log in or register to remove this advert

Recommended Posts

Posted
  Eddy_t said:
Took out a tree stake today with mine, wasn't expecting that much damage, now have a swollen leg where it flung a stick at me

 

 

Sent using Arbtalk Mobile App

 

Ouch !

Log in or register to remove this advert

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

If its heavy stuff ill be hitting I pull out the 3 tooth star blade or bramble I get the mulcher blade out.

 

If strimming grass then Oregon square dark red stuff. Think its 3mm. Does well. Lasts plenty of time and will stand up to most things you normally find whilst strimming!

Posted
  Quote
buy from this company find vortex good on grass Best Quality Strimmer Line (Strimmer Wire / Strimmer Cord) and Strimmer Heads

 

Looks goood but does it really reduce noise 50% etc?

Posted

Desert extrusion make the best line I recon . I use their 3.2 mm square for plain grass and their 4.00mm square for tough stuff .

Posted (edited)

What I've found is:

 

2.4 mm is ideal for grass, especially with the guard off. Any thicker and you're sapping power for no reason. On a big strimmer, run a smaller head for grass trimming (just change the centre nut over if necessary)

 

Square profile tends to gum in the head. Have not tried star, so will get a bit to play with.

 

2.7 or sometimes even 3mm is OK for thicker stuff, and if you run it in a 4-way autocut head, the wear on each bit is reduced by half so it lasts OK. Good for brambles against walls etc.

 

4mm causes too much drag. If the target is that tough, put a shredder knife on FFS.

 

Flexiblade is a complete waste of money. If the cord isn't the maximum length the the stimmer can handle, you're wasting time and petrol. You can make it run in a bump feed head, but it's not worth the hassle.

 

Final tip- the throttle is just that. It's not an on-off switch. A pity so many operators struggle to grasp this concept.

 

I run 3x Stihl FS460s

Edited by doobin
Posted
  doobin said:

 

Final tip- the throttle is just that. It's not an on-off switch. A pity so many operators struggle to grasp this concept.

 

I run 3x Stihl FS460s

 

When I was doing the brush cutter course it was a requirement to run the engine at full revs and not to run it up and down all the time. Something about the clutches being designed to run that way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  •  

About

Arbtalk.co.uk is a hub for the arboriculture industry in the UK.  
If you're just starting out and you need business, equipment, tech or training support you're in the right place.  If you've done it, made it, got a van load of oily t-shirts and have decided to give something back by sharing your knowledge or wisdom,  then you're welcome too.
If you would like to contribute to making this industry more effective and safe then welcome.
Just like a living tree, it'll always be a work in progress.
Please have a look around, sign up, share and contribute the best you have.

See you inside.

The Arbtalk Team

Read more  

Follow us

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.