Choose of fence post - advice please.

[caledonian bob]

Agree with that,the so called preservative used now is not much more use than water. My fencing supplier would not guarantee a 4"x4" wood post wouldnt rot within 5 years.

 

Change your fencing supplier

[s.varty]

it can be a pig of a job balencing a post while drilling through.

 

No need to drill,use coach screws with washers

[s.varty]

Change your fencing supplier

 

All decent preservatives have long been banned ,they contained arsenic apparently:thumbdown:

[Steve999]

If using concrete posts, do you have to have gravel boards to keep the fencing panels off the dirt? Or can you somehow suspend the fence panel (there's a brick wall behind and I'd prefer to see part brick)?

Don't want this effect:

[Matthew Arnold]

The boss and i have been discussing this evening the best way to put up a 6ft high fence on a soon to be dedicated bridleway. The plan is to use 1200mm concrete spurs with a bag of post mix around each spur mixed in with some aggregate (railway scalpings), bolt 4"x4"x6' Softwood or Oak posts to the spurs once they are set. Screw lengths of 6"x2" Foottread board as a gravel board just shy of the ground then screw 4x2 rail at halfway and about a foot from the top then nail 4"x1.5"x6' planks to them. Sounds complex but we have a rough idea of what we want to acheive.

 

BTW. Is it cheaper to by post mix in bulk or buy Cement and agregate and mix on site?

Edited March 25, 2013 by Matthew Arnold

[Daniel Jiggins]

The boss and i have been discussing this evening the best way to put up a 6ft high fence on a soon to be dedicated bridleway. The plan is to use 1200mm concrete spurs with a bag of post mix around each spur mixed in with some aggregate (railway scalpings), bolt 4"x4"x6' Softwood or Oak posts to the spurs once they are set. Screw lengths of 6"x2" Foottread board as a gravel board just shy of the ground then screw 4x2 rail at halfway and about a foot from the top then nail 4"x1.5"x6' planks to them. Sounds complex but we have a rough idea of what we want to acheive.

 

BTW. Is it cheaper to by post mix in bulk or buy Cement and agregate and mix on site?

 

Just use good quality posts with a borer bore the holes stick the posts in and concrete, not had any problems this way i would only use spurs to fix a broken post but its not much trouble to bust out a post with the breaker and set another should one rot after 10-15 years.

 

Its always cheaper to buy cement and aggregates but you have to mix, wait for it to set etc, post crete is pretty much instant and saves a lot of labour so will work out cheaper with the labour you save, well does for us.

[Matthew Arnold]

Just use good quality posts with a borer bore the holes stick the posts in and concrete, not had any problems this way i would only use spurs to fix a broken post but its not much trouble to bust out a post with the breaker and set another should one rot after 10-15 years.

 

Its always cheaper to buy cement and aggregates but you have to mix, wait for it to set etc, post crete is pretty much instant and saves a lot of labour so will work out cheaper with the labour you save, well does for us.

 

Its the big boss' idea to use spurs as the anchors but my idea to use the meatier posts. I would rather use Oak but we already have treated 4x4 softwood in storage ready and waiting.

[mowingjamie]

this is the way i done it last time with the concrete spurs.

[difflock]

Why does no-one use 8" wide steel folded to form a 4" by 4" right-angle.

Prebored holes in both faces at one end, and hotdip galv.

Then simply concrete in and bolt 4" sawn wooden posts to.

Stronger and lighter than concrete stubs/spurs and easier to plumb?

I have campaigned for this approach at work this 23 years.

We are now wreaking down, and replacing (after much difficulty in removing the concrete the posts were set in 600mm by 600mm by 600mm, hand mixed!) perfectly good fences because the concreted in wooden posts are entirely rotten.

[likeitorlumpit]

Why does no-one use 8" wide steel folded to form a 4" by 4" right-angle.

Prebored holes in both faces at one end, and hotdip galv.

Then simply concrete in and bolt 4" sawn wooden posts to.

Stronger and lighter than concrete stubs/spurs and easier to plumb?

I have campaigned for this approach at work this 23 years.

We are now wreaking down, and replacing (after much difficulty in removing the concrete the posts were set in 600mm by 600mm by 600mm, hand mixed!) perfectly good fences because the concreted in wooden posts are entirely rotten.

 

Sounds good but it would have to be galvanised at least and probably 6mm to prevent it twisting when the posts rot 10 years down the line. Would make fitting the panels and arris rails harder to get a sweet fit. Other than that, try Dragons Den.

We all know wood from ground to fence top is the best look for a fence.