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Choose of fence post - advice please.


Steve999
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Hi Steve,

Do what Dan said but you may need a long chisel or a bolster ,

you must go a minimum of 18" in the ground with the god father.

If you need to know anymore just ask .All the lads & lasses on here

have a wealth of knowledge. ATB Roy.

Edited by roycurwen1
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6 years ago had a fence installed for me, the contractor used 4x4 wooden posts (treated he said). I didn't watch him do it but it was sturdy. Anyway, one of the posts has rotten at soil level and the whole section had to be propped up to stop the inevitable.

 

My question guys, given that all the posts are likely to be the same, or just lagging a little, and will rot in time, do I get them replaced with concrete posts.

 

As it is adjacent to a brick wall about 3' -6" tall I don't want those concrete in fill sections at the base, I'd like to see the wall and have the panels starting just below the top of the wall, if that makes sense.

 

Any guidance would be welcome. Thanks, Steve.

 

If you want to use wooden posts then specify UC4 or creosoted posts, 15 year guaranteed life. If you use merchant quality the the treatment doesn't really mean that much.:thumbdown:

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If you want to use wooden posts then specify UC4 or creosoted posts, 15 year guaranteed life. If you use merchant quality the the treatment doesn't really mean that much.:thumbdown:

 

Agree with that,the so called preservative used now is not much more use than water. My fencing supplier would not guarantee a 4"x4" wood post wouldnt rot within 5 years.

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i do just like roycurwen1 said, concrete spurs (god father posts), i allways bolt the timber posts to these concrete spurs on the ground, place in hole, brace to level and fill around with concrete just making sure the timber posts are left 1 inch above ground level, then once the fence is up cut off the top of the timber posts to suit. If you dont bolt the timber to the concrete on the ground it can be a pig of a job balencing a post while drilling through.

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