Stock fencers- what order do you strain up?

[Coletti]

Exactly, don't really find it bad to work with, just a little more difficult to tie off

[digga]

give up using mild steel stock netting years ago as the quality was getting so bad the yield point was so low that its very easy to overstretch it and go from the elastic stage to the plastic stage of the wire with wire you get what you pay for i use a good quality ht netting and normally 3.15 ht plain ontop unless ht barbed but yer there is a lot of cheaper crap wire out there if you havent got good materials doesnt matter how much time and effort you put into it wont get a desent job

but agree on it being hard to do a proper job when the customer wants the cheapest job and doesnt consider the quality so i let them know the spec when quoting and allways quote to a standard im happy with

[fastracdude]

I know exactly what you mean about laying barbed wire out for setting up post lines,do it myself unless its FC spec which always has a bottom line wire in place. Be careful when straining HT wire in the cold weather,it can become brittle and snap very easily..As for strut or Box strainer it depends on the ground and on the wire for me....Should be have a few pics of from everyone??? Maybe a new thread....."Show us your Fencing"

[Matthew Storrs]

yep, i find cheap netting a real pain, you can strain it up all tight with clamps yet for some reason some of the strands are still slack half way along the line somewhere really irritating. Don't seem to have this problem with better quality stuff

[doobin]

yep, i find cheap netting a real pain, you can strain it up all tight with clamps yet for some reason some of the strands are still slack half way along the line somewhere really irritating. Don't seem to have this problem with better quality stuff

 

That's because it's made with so much recycled wire- each strand has a different tensile limit. I agree, it's utter rubbish.

 

Speaking of tensile limits, and with reference to your comment about how tight high tensile wire should be- the reason it's tensile limit (how much it can stretch) is higher than normal wire is NOT so that you can pull it assholes tight. You can pull it a bit tighter, but the reason for it's use is that a sudden shock loading (stock barging into it or a tree falling on it) will not cause it to stretch and remain saggy, or even break (as happens with normal wire). Instead, it will simply spring back into shape. If you tighten it up too tight, it will simply snap when shock loaded, as your tensioning will have put it at or on it's tensile limit, thus defeating the object.

 

The Kiwis and Saffers know their stuff re high tensile fencing (do we have any on here?) They use tension meters to ensure that the tension is optimum. Over here, the wire suppliers can't even tell you the wire's tensile limit

[Crazy Cutter]

Personally i always try and build gripples into the fence so that you can quickly re-tension even on the net. T-clips save so much time on tying off and personally would now use 3.15 plain instead of barbed. Ht means you don't have to have strainers at 50m spacing. Oh and bottom wire first then net and then other two using gripples so i don't slacken the net. Use kiwi's know far more than us.

[Matthew Storrs]

Personally i always try and build gripples into the fence so that you can quickly re-tension even on the net. T-clips save so much time on tying off and personally would now use 3.15 plain instead of barbed. Ht means you don't have to have strainers at 50m spacing. Oh and bottom wire first then net and then other two using gripples so i don't slacken the net. Use kiwi's know far more than us.

 

Yep gripples are a great time saver and the t gripples save so much faffing around tying that fiddly wee knot to tie the netting off, I don't tend to use the t grips that much because im always trying to keep material costs down, probably saves that in labour tho. The kiwis i notice tend to knock the stakes in at 90degrees to the slope as opposed to all vertical like over here, in a way makes more sense because more of the post is in the ground, I think my customers might raise an eyebrow or two if i i started doing that tho:001_huh:

[digga]

remember when i went to new zealand the posts looked strange at 90degrees to the slope but when you look at some of the steep slopes in some areas makes sense just wants some getting use to after putting in posts here

[face cord]

Unless the posts are treated to BS 8417 with the WPA benchmark guaranteeing treatment fit for purpose

 

How do you ensure whats standard they are when you buy the posts do you always enquire to check they are? Not sure the local place would know what I was one about if I asked them

 

Are theese standards enforced much?

 

Noticed some fence I helped put up around 5 yrs ago several posts have rotted & snapped off at ground lvl, a load of cows in the field were using the fence as a back itch

 

They were only half rounds though as they cost less than the full round ones as they didn't want to pay too much.

[caledonian bob]

How do you ensure whats standard they are when you buy the posts do you always enquire to check they are? Not sure the local place would know what I was one about if I asked them

 

Are theese standards enforced much?

 

Noticed some fence I helped put up around 5 yrs ago several posts have rotted & snapped off at ground lvl, a load of cows in the field were using the fence as a back itch

 

They were only half rounds though as they cost less than the full round ones as they didn't want to pay too much.

 

If you want posts to last insist on UC4