Logs or billets?

[gensetsteve]

I did billets for a couple of years and it made great logs. The reason I went for processing into big 1.5 cu metre bags was to save double handling and having to cut through the winter. Also the kit I had suited logging straight away. The beech we had did not cut evenly and tended to break up or produce alot of arrows. I have this year had some problems with mould due to the wet weather so billets make better logs and you can get away with cheaper kit but does take more time.

[Woodworks]

This is why we went for crates instead of bags. The crates give great air circulation so no problems with mold. Those of you doing billets do you not still have a lot of wood not suitable for billets and have to do some logs anyway?

[Crazy Cutter]

Take the splitter into the woods for a day and you make more moveable timber if access is bad or tight for your timber trailer. I process where the tree falls. Easier for me personally. Those without a splitter a maul and wedges are just as good on beech,ash,oak,chestnut and syc. Summer often syc only takes a tap on the end to split and will be dry in three months.

[normandylumberjack]

This is why we went for crates instead of bags. The crates give great air circulation so no problems with mold. Those of you doing billets do you not still have a lot of wood not suitable for billets and have to do some logs anyway?

 

For the most part we have plantation grown trees, that are straight and knot free. These make for hassle free billets. If growing your own, it pays to put in some time on management. When working on timber of a lower grade, I spend an extra few seconds cutting either side of bigger knots, and these off-cuts go in my Rayburn pile. A little bonus for me, and i dont worry if i have to spend a few swings of the maul as its free heat for me!!

I also plunge cut with the grain through any knots that are unavoidable and would otherwise slow the splitting. Hope this helps.

[Johny Walker]

Don't tend to take much notice of how long each stage takes, too many variables and you just get consumed by numbers. Just get them all split and stacked by end of winter, season over the summer, sell from october onwards - simples!

 

what kind of moisture do you have on the oak , as iv got a few tones to get thru

[Woodworks]

For the most part we have plantation grown trees, that are straight and knot free. These make for hassle free billets. If growing your own, it pays to put in some time on management. When working on timber of a lower grade, I spend an extra few seconds cutting either side of bigger knots, and these off-cuts go in my Rayburn pile. A little bonus for me, and i dont worry if i have to spend a few swings of the maul as its free heat for me!!

I also plunge cut with the grain through any knots that are unavoidable and would otherwise slow the splitting. Hope this helps.

 

Thanks

 

All our wood is hedgerow trees so different solutions for different problems.

[Stereo]

We do a lot of hedgerow and coppice stuff so we leave anything under about 6" dia in 1m lengths and stack on pallets with no cover. Left out all summer it's just a case of through the saw horse in Sept / Oct and you have excellent logs. Anything bigger than 6" we tend to cut to length on site and probably split as well with a maul or bring rings back for the splitter.

[davetaz]

what kind of moisture do you have on the oak , as iv got a few tones to get thru

 

Generally below 25%, majority down to 20-22%

[davetaz]

Those of you doing billets do you not still have a lot of wood not suitable for billets and have to do some logs anyway?

 

Yeah we still end up doing some logs, probably about 20 % of the total volume.

Try and get these straight in to the poly tunnel

[nepia]

Those of you doing billets do you not still have a lot of wood not suitable for billets and have to do some logs anyway?

 

 

Not a lot, no if you count a 2' log as a billet! I really try to avoid single logs at the outset to keep the handling down but some are inevitable.

 

Jon