Chain sharpening...

[Stubby]

I've got City and Guilds fabricator welder qual's but have forgotten all this.

 

I've been a tree surgeon for 18 years or so and didn't know all this about chrome and steel in chains etc.

 

I have found this thread very educational so thanks to the OP and all the posters who have put some thought into this.

 

Austenitic structure , martinsite grain structure carbon content tempertature ,soak and loadsa stuff like that . I had forgotten it all till this post !!!

[Mark_Skyland]

It might be worth looking at the oregon powersharp if its dirty stumps and timber that your cutting.

 

Home

 

We do have them in stock but they arent on the web site properly yet, although TBH any postage to France will probably kill the price but definitely worth checking out one of your local dealers.

 

Oregon Powersharp combo - 16" Bar/Sharpener - Oregon - Brands

 

Ive got to admit I havent tried one out yet but have seen a demo and they are quite impressive. The chain doesnt seem to get as destroyed like a normal chain would when hitting stone but then back to sharp after a couple of secs on the grinding stone.

[morten]

Or just use a hand file.

 

+1

[difflock]

I can understand the chap at the local Stihl dealer using the wee grinder, as most of the chains he is asked to sharpen have by default been neglected/butchered/ignored/whatever, by ignorant unskilled chainsaw users.

therefore to bring them back the pre-set grinder set up makes sense.

In my limited experience though I have never seen a problem with hand filing, on the basis that I keep on top of it and do not abuse the chain, if the chain is kept sharp one never needs to force into the wood and can also sense if it is meeting steel or worse a stone.

However if the saw is not being "bruted" no particular unfilable damage should result.

All based on a wee 026 running .325 chain.

cheers

ps

mulling over the rapid air cooling of a chainsaw tooth amounting to quenching

cheers

marcus

[Albedo]

The main thing I've learned from this thread is the importance of deburing the chrome edge when hand filing.

 

I started doing this a bit more as a result of something skyhuck said a while ago and noticed my chain staying sharper longer.

 

Now I understand why, and will debur my chrome edge when hand filing even more meticulously

[Big J]

I use a combination of hand filing and the Granberg electric sharpener. Both have their place at different times for different saws.

 

I use hand filing for all general sharpening of small to medium saws. I've always deburred my chrome edge, and find that a good edge will last me all day in hardwood thinning without ever feeling that I need to resharpen (today for instance).

 

I use the electric grinder for sharpening my ripping chains (I run a 50 inch bar on the 088) and for recovering damaged chains. Even once recovered, I still sharpen by hand to finish off.

 

As a point aside, has anyone else noticed that the performance of chains straight out of the box it poor? New chain on this morning, cut for five minutes feeling that it was slow and dull. Five minutes to sharpen and 4 strokes of the file on each depth guage and it was cutting like a dream, and all day too (6 tanks of fuel on a 346xp). I've found this to be the case for any brand of chain - even ripping chains. Why don't manufacturers put a decent edge on the cutters and take the depth guages down to a reasonable level?

[wisewood]

The main thing I've learned from this thread is the importance of deburing the chrome edge when hand filing.

 

I started doing this a bit more as a result of something skyhuck said a while ago and noticed my chain staying sharper longer.

 

Now I understand why, and will debur my chrome edge when hand filing even more meticulously

 

Could somebody elaborate on this please, a diagram would be useful. I need to see pictures to get it

What /where is this mystical chrome edge on the cutter? Is the burring on the side farthest away from you as you file?

Clearly I need to catch up!

[Albedo]

It was the debate between treequip, difflock and agg221 , that made things clear to me.

 

Hopefully they will come forward and explain.

 

If not I might have a go myself but will need to read the thread again.

 

I am usually too lazy.

 

Boils down to:

 

Not deburing risks the chrome flaking off leaving softer steel underneath as your cutting edge.

[Albedo]

Could somebody elaborate on this please, a diagram would be useful. I need to see pictures to get it

What /where is this mystical chrome edge on the cutter? Is the burring on the side farthest away from you as you file?

Clearly I need to catch up!

 

When you file something there are sometimes bits left on the thing you are filing still attached. Deburing is running something along the edge of the thing you've just filed in order to get a clean edge with no bits hanging on by a hair.

 

you can do this with your file, which is what I do just brushing it over the top to get rid of any straggly bits.

 

If you don't do this, the chrome layer on top of the steel tooth could be ripped off a bit in places leaving the softer steel beneath exposed.

 

Hope it's clear now:001_smile:

[treequip]

The chrome is on the top and side of the cutter, I will take some pictures for you tomorrow