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My Mog is DEAD!!!!!!!


skyhuck
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:confused1: It had good quality antifreeze in it!

 

The engine had overheated a couple of years ago, when the compressor belt snapped and took out the fan belt, this may have weakened the gasket?

 

True, it may have had good quality anti-freeze in it - but how long ago, how much water has been added since then & what was its original mix % & its currant mix %

 

A mog should have 50% water (10L) & 50% anti-freeze (10L)

 

Its worth noting that steel etc is always colder than the ambient air temperature so any water encased by the steel will be colder than water directly exposed in e.g. a puddle on the ground given time, if you factor in wind-chill this will lower steels temperature even further vs. ambient air temperature so a -3°C ambient air temperature could quite easily be translated as -18°C steel temperature in exposed places.

 

Take a trailed chipper, they normally have a radiator at the front, what do you expect the temperature of the radiator will be if you towed it 20miles to work in the morning in a modest -8°C ambient air temperature at 50mph behind your vehicle - given heat travels from hot to cold & the function of the radiator in doing this vs. wind-chill.

 

As for past overheating weakening gaskets, its possible but it more depends on if the water boiled or not, normal water boils at ~100°C as per a kettle (steam), in a captive water system like an engine pressurization is used to raze waters boiling point, each 1psig of pressure razes the boiling point by ~2°C, so if the system uses 15psig pressure the boiling point of water will be ~130°C, if Anti-freeze/summer coolant is added this will raze the boiling point still further & the temperature gauge will be able to read temperature correctly as the water is still fluid, once boiling takes place then steam (vapour blocks) creating voids ware localised engine temperature can rise very high >200°C causing damage & localised over-pressure due to rapid vapour expansion & temperature senders wont read this.

 

This is why when a modern engine gets above 100°C you should be very wary, as if you release the pressure the water that wasn’t boiling will start boiling after about <10sec once the pressure drop has reached the engine core, (steam trains, steam turbines etc use pressurisation to super heat water thus creating super heated steam which expands much more than normal steam once under pressure drop in e.g. a cylinder or turbine etc. ;)

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True, it may have had good quality anti-freeze in it - but how long ago, how much water has been added since then & what was its original mix % & its currant mix %

 

)

 

New radiator last year mate, so newish antifreeze.

 

It did not loose water, so no topping up to dilute.

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It is a great tool :001_cool:, but comes at a cost :scared1:

 

As long as you make use of it, which I do!.

 

And make sure you charge accordingly, then its a sound investment, IMHO.

hey skyhuck,so you are the gent with the four wheel steer mog. I remember how excited alex was when he told me about your mog. i bought my 2150 from Barrow on Furness about the same time. i ran my first u1200 dry after owning it for 2 weeks, i didnt stop till i couldnt see from the steam. then just kept going a little further. ignorance is bliss. luckily it was just a couple of packages from mr price plus a big mechanic putting it all back together. it was off the road for about 2 weeks. then it was as good as new. every time the tonkas break down you wonder why why why. then you get it back and the affair is back on.good luck

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