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stuck nuts


richard reed
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In the past I have used a shovel against the roller motor to put pressure onto the ratchet head, it stops the star bit rising out of the bolt head and then slow steady pressure turning the bolt with an assistant adding the pressure on the shovel. This method has got some very mashed up bolts out. Remember if you go down the welding route you will change the temper in the blades so bin those.

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Wind a new bolt in the hole from the bolt you have managed to remove, it will take a small amount of the presure off the other 2.

 

Drill the centre of the bolts out but use a new one as a comparison so you dont remove more than is necessary. Id avoid welding it as it will effect the temper of the steel,oh and if you do weld it make sure you disconect the battery I nearly always forget :blushing:

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You are only wielding to the stud, the heat is very localised, heat will be very quickly absorbed by the flywheel, so the blade will not get hot.

 

It takes minuets to get one out by wielding a bar to the stud IME, I did it many times went I had an entec.

Edited by skyhuck
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Find a large nut to fit over the mashed head, the tighter the better, bash it all the way on with a hammer then mig around inside, welding the cap head bolt to the nut. Allow to cool, the heat will travel down the thread, breaking the rust seal. Get a good size socket and bar and undo. Simples.

 

Bit of a job to do when the head is recessed in to the blade :confused1:

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I have recently found that changing my blades before they get lose their edge at less than 20hours is better for removal.

I use anti-seize grease on the threads too.

Less sap and resin which tends to heat and stick with the friction of dull blades.

I've bought a blowtorch for my next blade change upon the advice given on this forum.

I'll let you all know soon enough how it all goes...:sneaky2:

Ty

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