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Posted
scarf??is that what we call a gob, so you mean an open gob, so it doesnt break off the hinge early or on the horizontal, if so, it doesnt really work with sycamore well, it is very brittol, and a break cut in this situation wouldnt be cool either i think, you would have no control what so ever, especially when in full leaf.

 

Do you guys not call a gob a scarf in the uk?ive forgotten,Think ive been in nz to long :sneaky2:

Posted

How do you get around the problem of the winch going slack as soon as the tree moves ?

 

In 4x4 circles we use a kinetic recovery rope - think of it as a giant bungee with a 12 ton breaking strain - this allows the pull vehicle to get a bit of motion ( kinetic energy ) and when the pulled vehicle starts moving the rope keeps the pull on.

 

Could you use something similar on a tree with a tirfor ? I have a tirfor for recovery but it's very slow so building up a bit of stretch on the kinetic rope might be easier.

 

Just curious, if there's a reason for not doing it I'm interested.

Posted

Kinetic ropes are very very dangerous! I have seen more than one landrover smash into the back of another when using these! There is no control just drive and wait for the wiplash!

Posted
what felling cuts are being taught at colleges these days? seems most of the people i see fresh out of college are using very shallow felling cuts, which are fine for production, but IMO not very useful in arb.

Anyone recently out of college who has been taught any technical felling technique, ie, tapered hinges etc?

 

CS31 at Writtle this July was standard felling cut, split-level and dog-tooth cuts, 80/20 and letterbox. Felling level taught was as close to the ground as possible to maximise the timber produced, and variations in gob cuts were discussed in connection with when you want the hinge to break ie over obstructions etc. Course was aimed at forestry market but the instructor (Steve Woodley, quality guy) did point this out. :001_cool:

Posted
How do you get around the problem of the winch going slack as soon as the tree moves ?

 

In 4x4 circles we use a kinetic recovery rope - think of it as a giant bungee with a 12 ton breaking strain - this allows the pull vehicle to get a bit of motion ( kinetic energy ) and when the pulled vehicle starts moving the rope keeps the pull on.

 

Could you use something similar on a tree with a tirfor ? I have a tirfor for recovery but it's very slow so building up a bit of stretch on the kinetic rope might be easier.

 

Just curious, if there's a reason for not doing it I'm interested.

 

if it is slack then it is falling in the right direction mate, if it is leaning then you can get the feel of it through the turfor, very small movements and cuts, as it gets neared the 12 o clock position you will fell it getting easier, if there are tears appearing up the hinges then you need to cut a bit more. kinetic ropes on tree pulling, not for me mate, no control. never used one but i understand the theory, my old man used to use old climbing ropes on the back of a tractor for pulling stuff over when i was a kid, DODGY DODGY:thumbdown:

Posted

Dont really know what a kinetic rope is but if I can or need to use a truck to pull a tree over I use a wagoners hitch to get a bit of tension on then drive the truck to get a bit more which is usually enough. Dunno if its considered bad practice or not :blushing:

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

I have just done my felling training and we were taught the split level , dogs tooth and standard stright fell. we were also shown a letter box cut just for reference sake . We were taught to cut very very low to the ground but I personal preference I like cutting just above the butts much eaiser on the back .

 

Eastwater.:001_smile:

Posted
I personal preference I like cutting just above the butts much eaiser on the back .

 

Eastwater.:001_smile:

 

I often kneel down, better to have damp knees than a sore back :001_smile:

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