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felling cuts


Steve Bullman
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ok there are that many diffent name out there folk just get confused, that split level bollx isnt any good on anything above 4 inches i dont think, never used it and never will, sooner put a turfer or a tractor on it and have a wide gob and plenty of hinge!!

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If the tree is big enough to put high lift wedges in then there is no reason to use the split level cut.

 

Split level is good for control of small leaning trees.

even with a high lift wedge its still going to close on you befor you can get it in enough.

and it takes alot to get a leaning back tree over the other way with no leverage from a rope/cable.

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any you amagine the stress of doing one with a shed/green house behind!!!!!

can someone please put pictures/vids of the dog tooth, not too sure what youlot call a dogtooth cut....

 

isnt it just another name for a bore cut..

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kevin that is an open face cut.

 

as for what is taught mr b

 

stander felling cut 1/4 deep sink cut with parell 1 -2" hinge. split level cut, using a felling bar for pushing against slitly back or side wait tree, and triger cut for trees waited with the fall.

 

as for what height to fell and how deep to sink, deepens on the job you are doing, It is good to fell low if you want leverage of a bar or a wedge. but as you say if your pulling a stump out etc...

 

There are many different cuts out there for alsorts of problems but with forestry going by the way side the skill are lost on most arb guys, as the will climb and take down before even going that rout.

 

Key to all of them is to take time and get it right, because when it gose wrong when you rush you will sure as hell wast loads more time getting it unstuck or reparing the fence etc..

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