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Flatbed trailer repair


Dean Lofthouse
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cheers Stevie !

 

I thought it said kempi, they are well expensive but i heard great welders.

 

They are Expensive Robert but it has never broke down and I,ve had it about 14 years.

 

Can you fit prop stands to the back of the trailer for loading/unloading, to remove the twisting force and direct the load straight down into the ground?

 

That has been my intention for about 3 years but have never got round to it, I normally put a couple of blocks of wood under the chassis rails as Sandy has said below mainly to prevent it setting off down the drive when loading but like you say, it takes all the stress off the chassis.

 

One other thing I intend to make up when I get the time is an hydraulic jockey wheel that will cope with 3 ton, I did a search and found some piddley little thing for caravans but nothing heavy duty. If I made one of them I could also incorporate two little hydraulic prop stands for the back :thumbup1:

 

or even a couple of blocks of wood when the back wheels of landy off ground no handbrake!! seen it happen loading a mini digger it all ended in tears
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cheers Stevie !

 

 

 

They are Expensive Robert but it has never broke down and I,ve had it about 14 years.

 

 

 

That has been my intention for about 3 years but have never got round to it, I normally put a couple of blocks of wood under the chassis rails as Sandy has said below mainly to prevent it setting off down the drive when loading but like you say, it takes all the stress off the chassis.

 

One other thing I intend to make up when I get the time is an hydraulic jockey wheel that will cope with 3 ton, I did a search and found some piddley little thing for caravans but nothing heavy duty. If I made one of them I could also incorporate two little hydraulic prop stands for the back :thumbup1:

 

If you need a hydraulic jockey wheel may be worth measureing the nose weight its surprising how little even the Amazon should have on the back. Ifor do a triaxle trailer which may suit your application well. Putting 600kg on your hitch will quickly kill your back axle. I should know :biggrin:

5976600313495_logs013(600x400).jpg.7c2abc80c35989e2a59f971b06e10d74.jpg

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It's more because I go through jockey wheels because the thread goes in them because of all the winding up and down getting it off the hitch. One solution might be just to put the eye back on instead of the ball hitch. No winding up and down ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone cos it was

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It's more because I go through jockey wheels because the thread goes in them because of all the winding up and down getting it off the hitch. One solution might be just to put the eye back on instead of the ball hitch. No winding up and down ?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone cos it was

 

Have a look at one of the Jockey wheels of a timberwolf 250 not sure what make but if i think on will take a pic or call in sometime.

Best most robust one i have come across:thumbup:

good old timberwolf:thumbup1:

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Robert, have a look at Oxford welders, they are made in the uk, heavy duty, and not ridiculously expensive.

 

Think I paid under a grand for mine, single phase 280 amp, branded as portamig. There are several companies on t'interweb selling them under different brand names.

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If you need a hydraulic jockey wheel may be worth measureing the nose weight its surprising how little even the Amazon should have on the back. Ifor do a triaxle trailer which may suit your application well. Putting 600kg on your hitch will quickly kill your back axle. I should know :biggrin:

 

Think am right in sayin you should have no more than 150kg of nose weight as this is all the hitch and ball are rated too. otherweise if you get pulled by VOSA you will get fined and possibly have to address nose weight by unloading part of the load

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