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Chain oil


davey_b
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I've been advised that if I'm going to put veggie oil through my saws, then I need to turn the oilflow rate up to max, as the sawchain will throw much of the stuff out into the wild blue yonder, due to reduced viscosity. Assuming the veggie-users on here increase oilflow on their saws, does veggie still work out as a more-economical buy?

 

I was advised to turn the rate down

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hmm, I can't see how turning the oilflow down would be beneficial if the oil is less likely to stick to the chain. My advice came from an NPTC chainsaw course instructor - is he incorrect, then?

 

yes, i think so! as the oil is thinner won't it empty the oil reservoir quicker?

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treemeup - I should have added that he also mentioned the (extra) requirement to check the oil level frequently at first, to ensure you can work out how much work/fuel you can do before the oil will need replenishing. The saws he/others were using were Stihl MS260's, and they certainly did throw the veggie oil around in comparison with the semi-synth stuff in my own saw (smelt like working next door to a chip shop!). Unfortunately, the saws were never working prolonged enough to see what would run out first - oil or fuel.

 

The reasons cited for turning up the oilflow was that, with veggie, the chains/bars would not be as efficiently lubricated if the flow was left as standard set, and the oil was cheap enough to do this with anyway.

 

The fact (as you pointed out) that the oil tank will empty quicker with increased oilflow is what is making me wonder whether it is more economical to use veggie oil. I'm reluctant to change unless I can get it confirmed that any saw's oil setting does not need any alteration if working OK with semi-synth/mineral oils beforehand.

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treemeup

The reasons cited for turning up the oilflow was that, with veggie, the chains/bars would not be as efficiently lubricated if the flow was left as standard set, and the oil was cheap enough to do this with anyway.

 

I have no knowledge of semisynth oils but generally veg oils are better lubricants than mineral, especially at elevated temperatures. Castrol R (castor oil) was the stuff teddy boys added to their fuel to make a bike smell like a race track. Indeed a vsit to a motorcycle scramble in the 60s was full with the aroma.

 

It also adheres to metals better becase it has polarity that attracts it to the metal.

 

I got the impression that it didn't pump qute as easily so , in my case, it may not have oiled as much as ideally.

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food grade Veggie oil is great, doesn't get any more environmentally sound. No problems with anything (ponds, streams, pets etc etc etc......). Closer to home , kit is easier to clean, doesn't degrade synthetics (harness, ropes etc.) and spills are no worries. Been using it in all me saws for about 12 years now with no problems. Adjust the oil setting as required, getting the adequate throw-off when running the saw up so you can see it's oiling, check the drive links, you know how it's done.

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Depends on what you mean by OK.

 

In terms of wear to the bar,chain and pump etc I wouldnt worry about it at all.

 

I used the cheapest engine you could get for years and never noticed any less wear when moving to 'anti fling' chain oil.(that was when you could get 5 litres for around £2)

 

As for health OK, old oil is deffo a no go due to it being carcinogenic.

 

Engine oil is generally more expensive than chain oil so I think its a no brainer on that one.(I would buy the cheapest)

 

From what I can gather bio oil could be more hazardous to your health than non bio oil due to it not being inert and more susceptible to mould and fungus which you breath in.

 

ATM I buy mineral chain oil in 200 litre drums as its the cheapest.

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