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new chainsaw breakin runin


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I want to know what is the best way to deal with a chainsaw that is straight out of the box.

 

1. Should it be tuned straight away or wait till its been run-in for approx 20 hours?

 

2. Should a little extra oil be added to the fuel than normal, to aid in the run-in process?

 

Any other suggestions?

 

I've read others talk and some say its best to go easy and other say you should race the engine from new. I would go easy, but that is not my question for now.

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go for short low load sessions for say 5 tank fulls, should be ok on std oil mix. It should be supplied set ok but try it out after 1 tank full for a short test if you like, but I just see if it picks up ok and feels ok for a while then test it.

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Not sure by what you mean "Tuned from new", manufacturers usually tune to lower than the standard levels when the machine is new.

 

Personally I would avoid any prolonged cuts like cutting large rings and would allow the saw to idle to let it cool between mid size cuts. If you must do large cuts, do them in two shorter stints.

 

Keep the chain sharp to make the saw cut better and would personally run a 40:1 mix but that is just me being careful.

 

Once you have run 20-30 tankfuls, you can get your dealer to retune for higher revs

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I never really know what to do! Messing about with enduro bikes as I do you'll find that many people maintain that you run the bike 'like you stole it' straight from the crate. I've seen test reports on engines treated this way and it does seem to bear up. These engines have a higher compression than engines treated with kid gloves in their early life.

 

Evidently if you treat it too kindly the rings and bore glaze rather than the two bedding in together and forming a good seal. It does seem harsh thrashing it out of the box though.

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Can't beat a good working cocker me thinks .

 

Spot on there mate I get the dogs to sort out my saws?:thumbup:

 

Yep got 2 black working cockers, work well on a shoot. Do the lot, dogging in from a quad, beating close on drives and picking up. must put up a few more pictures.

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I never really know what to do! Messing about with enduro bikes as I do you'll find that many people maintain that you run the bike 'like you stole it' straight from the crate. I've seen test reports on engines treated this way and it does seem to bear up. These engines have a higher compression than engines treated with kid gloves in their early life.

 

Evidently if you treat it too kindly the rings and bore glaze rather than the two bedding in together and forming a good seal. It does seem harsh thrashing it out of the box though.

 

I treat them like a rifle barrel, need a bit of time to lap them in.

 

From all the pictures on here of dropping burnt pistons looking like infected 'lads' in a mens health mag, I'm going careful.:blushing:

 

Maybe M/C bike engines have different tolerances

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I never really know what to do! Messing about with enduro bikes as I do you'll find that many people maintain that you run the bike 'like you stole it' straight from the crate. I've seen test reports on engines treated this way and it does seem to bear up. These engines have a higher compression than engines treated with kid gloves in their early life.

 

Evidently if you treat it too kindly the rings and bore glaze rather than the two bedding in together and forming a good seal. It does seem harsh thrashing it out of the box though.

 

:thumbup:

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