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new chainsaw breakin runin


chainsawMal
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I always give an air cooled saw an easy time for the first couple of tank fills,turning them off every five minutes or so to cool down,as they free up over a few tank fills let them work harder.

In my opinion an air cooled motor does want a bit of time to settle itself in,as the engine temperature is more variable than a liquid cooled (such as a modern enduro bike).

The important bit is not to load the engine hard,& dont rev it flat out when not in the curf.

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I've seen test reports on engines treated this way and it does seem to bear up. These engines have a higher compression than engines treated with kid gloves in their early life.

 

Evidently if you treat it too kindly the rings and bore glaze rather than the two bedding in together and forming a good seal. It does seem harsh thrashing it out of the box though.

 

I was lucky enough to go on a Stihl course at Stihl head qaurters Uk, and i bought this up as there has always been so much differing advice out there.

What i was told is as follows, all engines are tested and pre-tuned at the factory and should be run as you intend to use it out of the box, leaving it to idle through tanks is probably a bad thing as as the engine will bed in under no load at low rpm, the best way to break in a saw is chogging down big timber at full revs with the saw under load this will allow it to bed in to its optimal rpm power range.

 

Mix as Stihl reccomends do not richen, then after 15-20 hours take it to be retuned, its important to use a tachometer to get it running at the right rpm at full speed for optimal power, to be honest i've never bothered with this if it works I am happy, I find saws can be individual by nature i've had 3 200t's all behaved different some were naughty others were nice.

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Thanks Marc, that's a good reply about your time at Stihl!!

 

 

its important to use a tachometer to get it running at the right rpm at full speed for optimal power,

 

Ok, as you say some saws will be different, but when using the tachometer, should the revs be at the top limit as quoted by the manufacturer?

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Thanks Marc, that's a good reply about your time at Stihl!!

 

 

 

 

Ok, as you say some saws will be different, but when using the tachometer, should the revs be at the top limit as quoted by the manufacturer?

 

I dunno was a long time ago now, so i cannot say for sure sorry.

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Thanks Marc, that's a good reply about your time at Stihl!!

 

 

 

 

Ok, as you say some saws will be different, but when using the tachometer, should the revs be at the top limit as quoted by the manufacturer?

 

I usually tune 1K below giving some margin for changes in the fuel system. The only exception are hot saws that get tuned to thrash - the plug does the talking!

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