Rope Wrench feedback

[carlos]

painting a very CONVINCING picture of its capability!!

thanks again for the feedback very handy to hear from people who have started to use them.

thanks carl p.s think it could be time to rewrite the xmas list!

[Cary Gibson]

You can climb to the top of the tree with the RW connected up but still clip in and out via DdRT and your lanyard....no need for two lanyards or anything like that....and then choke your line as SRT if you need to do some cutting and climbing along the way.

 

Being able to choke your line to any part of the tree is a major plus also....if you dont like the look of a particular crotch then you can just set the line below, on bare wood if you like. Same when working down a pole, set your climb-line under the flip line as normal, the RW doesn't change the configuration....but then choke it off and bail-out as and when you need to.

 

We took out a cluster of firs on wednesday....I'm not sure a video would really do it justice unless you followed a script to highlight all the options; as a technique SRT really needs to be experienced to be appreciated. Nobody was a bigger cynic of than I in the past, but I'll never go back to all that hand-over-hand pulling yourself up nonsense.

 

I'll try and get some video in the New Year of how it works for me....probably not the same for everyone, but the logic of DdRT is seeming more and more backwards as the days pass by since the last time I used it.

 

Just buy one Mark, dont mess about mate. Use it exclusively for a week and see how you feel thereafter....personally I feel a whole lot fresher, and with some renewed entusiasm for spurless climbing might I add:thumbup1:

 

 

Good stuff Reg DdRT is only used in our industry, every other vertical access field uses SRT.

 

DdRT works, but it has been the only game in town due to the equipment manufacturers and the friction saver-industry.

 

originally, it was meant to save the cambium, it still does, but the advent of pulley-systems on F-savers is really to make it easier.

 

DRT, by nature is the least efficient method of ascending and working.

 

the very act of the 2:1 ratio compared to the 1:1 of SRT is tiring over time.

 

there is NO way I'll go back to DRT, especially since i specialize in tight access work, where lots of times I have to ascend 70-90' to remove 3-5 dead limbs in 5-6 different trees. the Rope Wrench has made my job easier, less complicated and safer.

 

I used to ascend SRT via frog-walker, switch to DdRT, then come down on my eight to alleviate hitch-burn.

 

with the RW, I can go up, stopping to work as needed, then come down on the same rig, the RW takes 1/2, if not more of the friction from the hitch making the descent smooth and the cordage last a lot longer

 

I have a DMM thimble on my tether, it makes clipping in and out for ascending easier.

 

You can also clip the lanyard over the shoulder for shorter ascents and moving in the canopy, IE: climbing the tree.

 

with enough rope weight below, as along as the wrench is clipped either to the lanyard or a chest harness, it will self tend as you move, much like DRT, only way faster since you are moving 1:1.

 

 

I use it for everything now, small trees, big trees, deadwoods, prunes, cabling, big removals etc.

[Paul Smith]

Good stuff Reg DdRT is only used in our industry, every other vertical access field uses SRT.

 

DdRT works, but it has been the only game in town due to the equipment manufacturers and the friction saver-industry.

 

originally, it was meant to save the cambium, it still does, but the advent of pulley-systems on F-savers is really to make it easier.

 

DRT, by nature is the least efficient method of ascending and working.

 

the very act of the 2:1 ratio compared to the 1:1 of SRT is tiring over time.

 

there is NO way I'll go back to DRT, especially since i specialize in tight access work, where lots of times I have to ascend 70-90' to remove 3-5 dead limbs in 5-6 different trees. the Rope Wrench has made my job easier, less complicated and safer.

 

I used to ascend SRT via frog-walker, switch to DdRT, then come down on my eight to alleviate hitch-burn.

 

with the RW, I can go up, stopping to work as needed, then come down on the same rig, the RW takes 1/2, if not more of the friction from the hitch making the descent smooth and the cordage last a lot longer

 

I have a DMM thimble on my tether, it makes clipping in and out for ascending easier.

 

You can also clip the lanyard over the shoulder for shorter ascents and moving in the canopy, IE: climbing the tree.

 

with enough rope weight below, as along as the wrench is clipped either to the lanyard or a chest harness, it will self tend as you move, much like DRT, only way faster since you are moving 1:1.

 

 

I use it for everything now, small trees, big trees, deadwoods, prunes, cabling, big removals etc.

 

I have been using SRT for over a year now and like you I use it for everything and won't be going back to Ddrt!

[gibbon]

Mines in the post. Can't wait to give it a try.

[Ian Flatters]

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5QdJC7ugYk0]TREEGEAR TV | Singing Tree Rope Wrench Demo - YouTube[/ame] a great video explanation i thought.

[Dan Curtis]

Mine arrived on monday, just got to find the time to play with it now

[munkymadman]

i'm already converted, the one query would be working on a pole where your felling sections out, normally keeping high point in until the final back cut. i always use a rope guide. i can picture how you can use the rw but are you better off staying on drt for this situation, as theres no ascending going on. also whats the largest diameter rope it will work on

[munkymadman]

also does it mean theres no point using a chest ascender anymore to srt up a tree. could you include a neck loop to it, to prevent it from dropping to your knees when ascending?

[RC0]

i'm already converted, the one query would be working on a pole where your felling sections out, normally keeping high point in until the final back cut. i always use a rope guide. i can picture how you can use the rw but are you better off staying on drt for this situation, as theres no ascending going on. also whats the largest diameter rope it will work on

 

I would definately wrap the climb line around the pole i.e. DdRT, but leave the wrench in place in case you need to rappel/bail out at anytime (choke the line and ascend srt, no need for rope guide anymore).

 

probably between 11 -13mm, cant remember for sure, the pantin will definitely shread a 13 + anyhow, so perhaps 11, 12 is best.

[Ian Flatters]

I've had a couple of plays over christmas and well, I'm not going to lie it feels really weird to start with as you are so used to art, two lines. Although no friction effecting the hitch payout is really really great. Just getting the fundamentals in my head sorted and it tackle some work with a saw.