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spudulike

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+1 for the welding technique. I tend to weld a thick washer into the race at the same time as running a bead, in this way not only does the race release but I have something to tap on to tap it out.

 

Spuds way is good, but 2hrs at my £50hr is a bit steep to get a bearing out. 3minutes with the welder.

 

The heat from the bead is doing the job of expanding/popping the bearing? The washer is so you can have something to hit from the other side? So it must be smaller dia than bearing to allow for welding?

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The heat from the bead is doing the job of expanding/popping the bearing? The washer is so you can have something to hit from the other side? So it must be smaller dia than bearing to allow for welding?

Spot on Mike, though in truth although I said 'washer', I use any old bit of steel that fits in.

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Had a Husqvarna 576XP autotune in, obviously seized and in this case strange as it had actually left the engine locked up and not loose as is normally the case.

 

I stripped off both covers, bit of penetrating oil down the plug hole, wrench on the flywheel and it came loose pretty easily.

 

Popped the top end off, very clean saw but unusual in how defined the seize was down both sides of the piston. Not the normal less defined damage you get.

 

The cylinder has been cleaned and lightly honed and looks pretty damn good with little visual damage and it can't be felt at all.

 

New piston on order.

59766dab2196d_CleanedCylinder.jpg.8f7985e3739afc90bea361eac8e109f2.jpg

59766dab1fee9_CylinderBeforerepair.jpg.3629c2edd0773c4ac9b89f590086d150.jpg

59766dab1afe6_PistonSeize.jpg.1dd25dc4c4deecb996f685fbb91f43b9.jpg

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Piston looks a right mess, cylinder looks ok though, if its a G model dont forget to diss connect the carb heater, they will increase cylinder temprature.

 

No heaters on this one, that aluminium transfer was pretty thick, not the worst I have seen but not far off it. Came off in the end and looks clean now.

 

Should be OK once a new piston is fitted:thumbup:

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