What's on your bench today?

[spudulike]

The brass jet was to reduce emissions, it closed off the low speed jets at full throttle, as i recall this was only fitted to the Walbro 357xp, it was a disaster, so the Zama carb without the jet and no compensator.

 

I know the 357s had issues with these carbs, never heard of them on the 346XP, I did look at the IPL and it doesn't seem to list any pump or internal valve etc so probably not that and I think the 357XP issues tended to be wandering idle issues rather then flat out issues!

 

Always interesting stuff though, my modified 346 can have the H screw wound all the way in and still pulls good revs, not sure if they have some secret bypass circuit. Never worried about it as it goes like a scalded cat on around 1 turn out!

[adw]

Are you trying to run this saw with a 357xp carb??

[spudulike]

Been working on a 346XP, very clean condition but it wouldn't idle and was boggy on pickup.

 

Stripped, cleaned, compression 160psi dry and cold, piston looks clean with no marks.

 

Pressure and vac tested and found a decent size leak, heard air escaping from the manifold area and bubbly fluid showed it around the impulse line.

 

Popped off the cylinder as this has to be done on these saws and on inspection, found the impulse line to be OK but the impulse connection on the manifold was split badly.

 

This sort of fault could have taken out the top end but was fortunately spotted and sent in to me for sorting:thumbup:

 

This sort of fault is almost impossible to see with the plastic clamp in place on the manifold so removing the manifold is always a good idea.

 

This manifold shares it's design on the 340/345/350/346/357 and probably more and can give issues like this plus if the saw has been apart before, it is easy to not push this impulse connection in the hole below the inlet port properly, crushing the protrusion and causing an air leak!

 

I fit the rubber part to the cylinder and THEN fit the plastic clamp - ensures a correct and good fit each time!

[div_h]

Evening

 

My newly rebuild 026c won't switch off? I've got continuity between the coil and the switch?

[spudulike]

Evening

 

My newly rebuild 026c won't switch off? [ATTACH]181184[/ATTACH] I've got continuity between the coil and the switch?

 

That leaf spring should be earthed and it should touch the brass end of the black wire - the spring looks like it is proud of the brass end to me - meter it off and see if the black wire is connected to earth in the position you have it in the pic.

[div_h]

That leaf spring should be earthed and it should touch the brass end of the black wire - the spring looks like it is proud of the brass end to me - meter it off and see if the black wire is connected to earth in the position you have it in the pic.

 

It is touching it:confused1: I'm jus going back out

[peatff]

Probably the spring needs pushing across a bit so it contacts the brass terminal on the end of the kill wire. It touches the plastic on the choke lever instead and doesn't earth sometimes.

[swinny]

Thrown the 201t in the bottom of the box the other month!

 

How many fuel tank breathers will it go through?

 

Can you clean them etc? This is the 2nd its gone through!

[div_h]

probably the spring needs pushing across a bit so it contacts the brass terminal on the end of the kill wire. It touches the plastic on the choke lever instead and doesn't earth sometimes.

 

[div_h]

Do you think it's because there's a broken wire for the heated handle or is the nothing to do with it? I will solder the wire back on today