What's on your bench today?

[Johny Walker]

some intresting pics for spud first one is the 024 pistion with 1 ring

 

is the danarm a runner

[burrell_]

yeh she is a runner

brought 2 spares and repairs the over one would be a runner if i had a spare coil

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D44Dtomv9mU&feature=relmfu]danarm 1 71 ss 2 - YouTube[/ame]

[swinny]

Struggling to get a dolmar 133 super to oil properly!

 

Had the pump off and all the lines..... blown through everything, took pump apart and re assembled.

 

I put the pipe back on the pump and tried rotating the shaft to see if it oiled, should it pump through by just turning by hand? or does it need the speed of the saw?

 

ANyhow put it back on the saw, got it running, and it bubbles a bit out of the oiler hole, some can out then nothing. Seems to try oil a bit when saw level but when on side, its no good...

 

Chris

[spudulike]

Struggling to get a dolmar 133 super to oil properly!

 

Had the pump off and all the lines..... blown through everything, took pump apart and re assembled.

 

I put the pipe back on the pump and tried rotating the shaft to see if it oiled, should it pump through by just turning by hand? or does it need the speed of the saw?

 

ANyhow put it back on the saw, got it running, and it bubbles a bit out of the oiler hole, some can out then nothing. Seems to try oil a bit when saw level but when on side, its no good...

 

Chris

 

Sometimes these oil pumps just wear and go beyond their life and stop working - I have had two do this recently and did the same as you.

 

Typically, if you place a tube on the "oil out" or "oil in" connector and blow down it while rotating the oil gear, it should always be difficult to get air past the oiler shaft - if it is pretty free flowing through then the casting has probably worn away and it is time for a new one!

 

The oiler will do very little by turning it over by hand but needs the engine speed to oil properly. We probably all know the "pointing th ebar tip at clean wood and running the saw flat out" oiler check!

 

Typically the tank filter gets blocked, the pinion wears, the pump pipe connectors get plugged or it just claps out:thumbdown:

[wyk]

WYK

 

just starting to look into porting now and finding the stuff on the forum really interesting.

quick question i see you have adjusted the high (top and bottom) of the transfer port, this will change the timing, will it not? what affect will this have and what else do you need to do to keep everything else working together ie inlet and outlet ports?

 

Thanks

Ric

 

The upper transfers must be modified for both more flow and a better flow pattern. I increased the timing a few degrees. I then ground the ports forwards towards the intake side to allow more flow to the front of the cylinder. This helps the flow across the top of the piston and the flow pattern in general. After looking at the pattern on the piston, I think I can bring the uppers back a touch as well. So you are overall adding more timing and width.

 

The lower transfer I opened all the way to the bottom of the case. So a significant amount of metal was ground off there. I ended up with about a 3/16th inch X 1.2 inch port into the case. I did this hoping to increase flow at all RPM's because I want enough torque to run an 18" 3/8 B&C on this saw, and not just horsepower. I need it to be a trail clearing saw for a toolbox in my timber cruising truck. I occasionally see 3' trees in my way, so 18" was mandatory. This saw is treated rather poorly, so I decided to use the $20 444SE that fell in my lap for the duty.

 

I have replaced the piston with a modified 346xp piston. It's giving me a bit too much compression right now(close to 230PSI),and i am starting to see some detonation, so I am going to make a gasket out of a beer can and see how she does. Barring that, I'll then put a washer on the spark plug. While I didn't go nuts on the timing of the transfers and port, I am not sure adding another full-sized gasket would be beneficial. So we'll see how she does in bit here. I wish I could supply beter images, but my camera has no macro setting

[spudulike]

As you have seen earlier, Burell has been machining the cylinder and piston of my 357XP.

 

Whilst I had it stripped down, I decided to open up the ports a little more, inlet and exhaust and opened the lower transfer a little.

 

You can also see the previous changes to the upper transfers nearest the inlet port.

[burrell_]

nice spud the base of the pot on the left side looks really nice

u mush have someone that is good at machining :lol::lol::lol:

[Daniël Bos]

Ported my ms180 today!

Widened the ports mainly, for a bit more grunt. Drilled out the exhaust and opened up the louvres as much as possible.

All of those things would do no good on a standard 180 as the carb is not adjustable but I found and fitted a walbro 215 carb. A direct replacement, only needed to drill the holes through the cover, the filter already has a fitted bit of plastic to guide a screwdriver.

 

It runs well, and sounds like a baby lion. Angry but little.

Will borrow my neighbours' 180 one day this week and do some comparisons.

 

 

It rained a lot today......

[spudulike]

Ported my ms180 today!

Widened the ports mainly, for a bit more grunt. Drilled out the exhaust and opened up the louvres as much as possible.

All of those things would do no good on a standard 180 as the carb is not adjustable but I found and fitted a walbro 215 carb. A direct replacement, only needed to drill the holes through the cover, the filter already has a fitted bit of plastic to guide a screwdriver.

 

It runs well, and sounds like a baby lion. Angry but little.

Will borrow my neighbours' 180 one day this week and do some comparisons.

 

 

It rained a lot today......

 

Sounds like a fierce beast of a saw:lol: good for a bit of learning - lets see a vid of both using the same chain and bar - time 2-3 cuts and see what the difference is!

[WoodED]

i ported ms180.. hmm.. im intreged