Rate My Hinge.

[Rich Rule]

Another

Edited August 24, 2010 by Rich Rule

[Stephen Blair]

you let Mark fell a tree.

[Mark Bolam]

Give everyone else a chance to guess first, Stevie!

[Rich Rule]

you let Mark fell a tree.

 

Nah, all went to plan.

 

winching heavy backleaners from over a road into woodland. Did 9 of them this morning, fell chop and leave.

 

The guy I was working for is old school and not sure if it is a recognised cut/method, but it work all right.

 

If the top of the crown is compromised due to deadwood, you may not be able to get a high pull line. so tie into solid wood and then bring the backcut a couple of inches under the bottom of the face. This creates a step so the butt doesn't fly of the stump and you lose the tree over the back. Fibres crack as in a step cut and then the hinge takes over.

 

comments from you more experienced fellers welcome?

[Pete Mctree]

Nah, all went to plan.

 

winching heavy backleaners from over a road into woodland. Did 9 of them this morning, fell chop and leave.

 

The guy I was working for is old school and not sure if it is a recognised cut/method, but it work all right.

 

If the top of the crown is compromised due to deadwood, you may not be able to get a high pull line. so tie into solid wood and then bring the backcut a couple of inches under the bottom of the face. This creates a step so the butt doesn't fly of the stump and you lose the tree over the back. Fibres crack as in a step cut and then the hinge takes over.

 

comments from you more experienced fellers welcome?

 

I see the logic, but I don't like it. It could promote splitting as it loads back to front. The same step could be created with a tall face cut and a high back cut.

[Rich Rule]

I see the logic, but I don't like it. It could promote splitting as it loads back to front. The same step could be created with a tall face cut and a high back cut.

 

 

sorry pete, you've lost me there.

 

if the tree leaves the butt due to the hinge failing on a back leaner, how would the method described above stop the butt of the tree shooting off the stump? It would certainly stop stump shot once it had commited to the direction of fall. but I can't see how that method would work on a backleaner.

 

btw pete, I was following guidance from a guy who has been at it a lot longer than me and been doing dead and dangerous trees for the majority of the time. Interesting points you bring up though.

 

Anyone else?

Edited August 24, 2010 by Rich Rule

[Big 'Ammer]

I see where your coming from with that Rich, but never seen it used or tried it myself.

 

I would normally do as Pete described, and if there's chance redirect the pull line through a block set high up in a strong tree nearby to get a more lateral rather than downward pull, even a slight upward pull if possible, but certainly use the longest pull available.

 

A lot depends on the size and species of the trees, and how much they are leaning, and what gear you have available to use.

 

I'll have to try your technique out when there's a suitable safe situation and see how it goes, its the only way to learn.

[Frank]

I see where your coming from with that Rich' date=' but never seen it used or tried it myself.

 

I would normally do as Pete described, and if there's chance redirect the pull line through a block set high up in a strong tree nearby to get a more lateral rather than downward pull, even a slight upward pull if possible, but certainly use the longest pull available.

 

A lot depends on the size and species of the trees, and how much they are leaning, and what gear you have available to use.

 

I'll have to try your technique out when there's a suitable safe situation and see how it goes, its the only way to learn.[/quote']

Or........ Risk it for a biscuit and go for the stuntfell.

[Stephen Blair]

i see it works ok Rich but i dont really get it, it looks like a HUGE gob and a small back cut. Now to me by taking such a big gob out you are taking away the tension, so you are committed before you even do your back cut. If i was doing that i would get a low open gob and do my back cut on the same level, take enough tension on the pull line to hold it, cut straight to where i usually would in a normal fell and winch it over. Sycamore doesnt like to be pulled over under stress to the hinge, but it will hold as normal 180 degrees to where the main lean is

[Frankie Lawrence]

weve done a few jobs sounding similar to that but putting the back cut alot higher. weve got a meaty tractor winch and the traffic is stopped there was not a problem with anything.

 

We was on a coppice site so if doing that could of damaged the stump which effects re groth- weather or not it would or if in fact it would damage it I dont know im just saying its a possibility.

 

Interesting though i still dont see why not do a split level?