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Coates blockdriver


Steve Bullman
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Just thought I'd bump this thread. The tool seems like a good concept, and well built. By now, I'm sure you've sold them all, Reg. That's good.

 

but here's an idea for anyone who doesn't have one, want one, or can't get one. My guess is, it is easier than using the Blockdriver.

 

Use a crowbar to lift the section enough to insert a dowel, broken rake handle (or that size) is perfect. Roll section right off effortlessly. If piece is very heavy, two dowels can be used. I've done this to gain lateral distance to clear an obstacle.

 

I'll confess, I did laugh at the tool a bit, when offered it to try by Frans. But another gizmo, the Conyfair rattle Wedge, that conical screw thingy, seems rather hilarious, especially at $230, for tipping over logs.

 

If your a contract climber who specialises in large removals in confined spaces then the block driver is an excellent tool.

 

I suspect the block driver was borne out of the fact that Coates is a large tree removal specialist who devised a system of moving very heavy logs off the stem with the least amount of effort. As for taking a crow bar, broken rakes and dowels up the tree - I think we can do better than that - right?

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As for taking a crow bar, broken rakes and dowels up the tree - I think we can do better than that - right?

 

Not really, Tim. It works like a charm...easy.

 

Mind you, the need to do so around here is rare. And the need for a tool like the block driver even less.

While we do have a number of large trees in the PNW, most of the time, it's easy to get them down.

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Not really, Tim. It works like a charm...easy.

 

congratulations on your technique

 

Mind you, the need to do so around here is rare. And the need for a tool like the block driver even less.

While we do have a number of large trees in the PNW, most of the time, it's easy to get them down.

 

Thats good

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Just thought I'd bump this thread. The tool seems like a good concept, and well built. By now, I'm sure you've sold them all, Reg. That's good.

 

but here's an idea for anyone who doesn't have one, want one, or can't get one. My guess is, it is easier than using the Blockdriver.

 

Use a crowbar to lift the section enough to insert a dowel, broken rake handle (or that size) is perfect. Roll section right off effortlessly. If piece is very heavy, two dowels can be used. I've done this to gain lateral distance to clear an obstacle.

 

I'll confess, I did laugh at the tool a bit, when offered it to try by Frans. But another gizmo, the Conyfair rattle Wedge, that conical screw thingy, seems rather hilarious, especially at $230, for tipping over logs.

 

Well, I just managed to catch a glimpse of this thread on the way out this morning and as you can see in the picture Roger, I had my rake ready to cut in half and give it a go…. but all things considered, I eventually decided against it i.e. this Ash trunk was 5 ft across at the top, leaning in the opposite direction to where I needed to push the rounds (I would have to work from the underside), Oh and of course they needed to be rigged down as it was real tight below….If that’s not obvious in the pictures then you’ll just have to take my word for it.

 

As a freelance climber I’m little more respectful when representing another mans company and reputation than chancing some broken rake and bar methodology when the stakes are high. Steve (company owner) probably would have fed my bits of rake through his chipper and asked me to leave the site.

 

By now, I'm sure you've sold them all, Reg. That's good.
I don’t recall saying or suggesting that to anyone ever Roger….why would you write something like that?

 

Why fix something that ain't broke?

 

I usually just cut at an angle and the biggest blocks just slide right off. Easy peasy japanesy

Obviously that wouldn’t have worked here either Butch….and even if there is plenty of room for free falling – we often have to wheel these chunks up to 50 yards from a back garden out to the front….up steps, through narrow gateways and all sorts delicate and often challenging terrain. So we have to be a little more forward thinking than just putting stuff on the floor in all shapes and sizes. And as well as - cutting on a slope, towards your safety lines, across the grain with an 088….rather you than me Brother!

 

On a more positive note, for anyone who’s interested, I managed to capture this the entire job, good and bad, on the helmet-cam with the new wide angled lens….what a difference to the old one. You can just see so much more….when I watched some earlier from the raw file I almost had to stop my self from ducking under the branches etc:001_cool:. Obviously the youtube format will diminish the viewing experience quite significantly but it’ll be still worth a watch when I get round to editing at weekend.

 

Oh, and as for the rattle-wedge….I didn’t feel compelled to buy one either but I did get the opportunity to look one over. It’s a solid little thing but not so much that you’d notice it hanging on your saddle. If it does indeed work then of course it has merit when things need a little more than a push or lift etc….perhaps when not as convenient or less work to start asking for help from your colleagues….who know! Whatever, someone, whoever they are probably had to work hard and put their money on the line to bring it to market. Good on them I say, sorry for not sharing in the hilarity of it all.

No more baiting please guys, there's plenty more interesting threads than this one to bump. Thanks and all the best:001_smile:

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