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Coates blockdriver


Steve Bullman
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It appears to be a well made piece of gear, for sure.

 

A good policy when its your ass on the line.

 

Retail including lever bar is around 275, although this may vary depending on who you purchase from.

 

let me assure you that the price only reflects the good quality and estimated working life of the product, plus the fact that it is manufactured by our tradesmen in the west.

 

At the AA trade show, Mr Ed could only shake his head when I told him how little the retailers and I make per tool. But we figured it would be better to still go with the product and make a little rather than bury it and have no product at all.

 

I actually heard through the grapevine that certain potential retailers were put off, not only by the profit margin but also the fact that they couldn't see how they were going to make anything on replacement parts. I suppose the latter of the two points is a complement of sorts, but a pretty cynical way for them to look at the situation, I think you'd have to agree.

 

Thankfully, 4 very reputable retailers stood by me Treeworker, Proclimber, Honeybrothers and Buxtons, such is there passion to sell good quality products that have a purpose. They're a couple of other's outside the UK but they have no relevance on this forum.

 

Clearly, as a business-man I am sh-t,

As a saleman I am a faliure,

However, as a designer I'm encouraged,

As a treeman, thankfully I'm still learning!

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I can attest to the block drivers superb construction. It really is made like a swiss watch. I would have sacrificed some of the nicety's for the bottom line, but I like the fact that Reg has built a thing of beauty (to us engineers).

 

I'm still trying to figure out how you can simplify the build Reg...

My thing is, I would hardly ever need one for my work. But back in the days when I lived and worked in cheshire, blocking down big black poplar in tiny back gardens, I would have killed for one of them...

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I had a chance to use the Block driver.

 

I used it for August.

Unfortunately, We were in a major clearcutting project for 2.5 months,

so no chance to use it for what it was designed for.

 

Reading the above posts, I agree, The mechanics and ratios were awesome,

just the effort of ratcheting was rerquired to move the wood.

 

We only pushed some little 40ish" stumps around,

I sent some pics. I know they were weak pics.

 

Though I could see how if used properly with storing the device on the top of the trunk

and not wearing it on your sadlle in between cuts would not be any major hinderance.

 

Though with that said, is there much contol/aim in your chunk toss?

 

For fear the device falls, if not held, as you toss the chunk in the hole.

 

I can see how if you have a nice drop zone and a huge

girthy freaking monster 55-65ish" whatever tree,

this block driver would defintely move that round a

lot easier than without it.

 

It would be awesome from a bucket too.

 

I know the frustration of not being able to get a chunk off the spar, without ripping it in place on the stick.

 

I think it's a great tool.

Though I didn't climb with it or really use it as designed we moved stumps off of flush cuts.

 

Sorry mang, right now we're getting into the big

removals again.

 

:)

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`Though with that said, is there much control/aim in your chunk toss?

For fear the device falls, if not held, as you toss the chunk in the hole.`

 

 

That is not a problem. You just aim the blockdriver to where you want the piece to drop off. You know when you try to push a block, it sometimes skids off a touch in the wrong direction? Well, there is no chance of that with this thing.

 

If the trunk is wide enough to need the blockdriver, then there is plenty of room on the standing trunk for it to sit safely without getting in the way.

 

It is incredibly powerful. That tree in the vid above was a breeze for it. and me.

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  • 4 weeks later...
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Saw this at the Arb show first, thought it was just another over priced shiny gizmo (sorry designer).

After seeing vids and reviews, talked work into getting one.

I now love this Tool. great vfm imho (though it didn`t come out of my pocket), bril power ratios and dont consider the weight an issue.

One thing i would mention though, check for solidity of the cross cut as the teeth would obviously struggle to bite on decaying timber.

This job was not suited to it, as i should have realised by all the Fistulina in evidence, that it was internally shot, Doh !!!

It was a no fell, being kept as a monolith.

 

Any one think there may be a connection between the Mobile Masts Electro Magnetic Pulses and the demise of this Mature Robur ??????

PB260002.jpg.468775c1f9471b08c0905252066fc719.jpg

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  • 3 weeks later...
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I was sent a blockdriver some time ago to try out and give my thoughts on it.

 

Overall I have gotten a mixed reception on the device. I have brought it to several tree services and for the most part have been laughed at.

 

For me personally:

 

I have used it on some fairly big chunks 4.5-5 foot range maybe in the 500 lb. weight range.

Historicly I would always either set a pull off line cut at an angle, or just give a mighty heave and push the chunk off.

So I was a bit skeptical myself when I first saw the device.

 

After using it for the first few removals, the device does exactly what the manufacturer said it would.

 

Also I have not managed to break it under normal use. So it seems plenty strong to me.

 

The manufacturer warned me about keeping the chain at just the correct tension, but the chain has not slipped on me at all.

 

Next week I will send the device to a guy to check out, and I am hoping to have another review when he has worked it on a few jobs.

 

I give the Blockdriver a thumbs up :icon14:

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  • 6 months later...
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Just thought I'd bump this thread. The tool seems like a good concept, and well built. By now, I'm sure you've sold them all, Reg. That's good.

 

but here's an idea for anyone who doesn't have one, want one, or can't get one. My guess is, it is easier than using the Blockdriver.

 

Use a crowbar to lift the section enough to insert a dowel, broken rake handle (or that size) is perfect. Roll section right off effortlessly. If piece is very heavy, two dowels can be used. I've done this to gain lateral distance to clear an obstacle.

 

I'll confess, I did laugh at the tool a bit, when offered it to try by Frans. But another gizmo, the Conyfair rattle Wedge, that conical screw thingy, seems rather hilarious, especially at $230, for tipping over logs.

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